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There are ducted shrouds and splitters from the scoop to the top of the intercooler, but nothing after to direct airflow!   Older models had only a small vent to bypass the intercooler to feed the turbo cooling duct. Which was fine as air only exited under the car.   The newer cars have a large gridded vent on each side as well as a series of rectangle cutout along the back of the seal. Im guessing they have these to blow the hot air to the sides of the engine bay and out via the front fenders and vents. Though possible that the side without the turbo needs far less. The rear rectangular holes would have sent external air down the firewall and over the clutch master etc. This also lets the hot air vent back through the scoop when not moving. The large gridded vents are the highest point in the engine bay so convection does its job. It is very noticeable on cold of rainy days when the shimmer from the heat exits the vent in standstill traffic.   Now with a large intercooler fitted the duct ends 4cm from the back edge of the fins in the core. The much larger inlet takes up almost all the gap to the firewall. So any air that vents back there is above the seam to the wiper motor area and won’t flow downwards over the firewall.   Since this requires the OEM rubber duct to be moved 4cm or more rear wards just to cover the core, maybe there needs to be a few deflectors underneath to direct some of the air towards the firewall. This may also help direct more hot air to exit under the car rather than become stagnant near the firewall.

Fitted reverse LED. Easy job as little hatches in the rear hatch to access them. Since they are foam seal light clusters the bulbs have no o-ring to get stuck. The reverse lamps come on with engine off as long as you have double tapped start button without the clutch in. Made it easy to check they worked.   Fitted new fog or spot light bulbs.  Both are accessible from the wheel liner if you turn the wheel full lock. There are 3 black plastic panel clips on the wheel liner lower section that is outside the bumper. peal back liner as far as you can. About 15cm of the upper section that inside the metal body work is enough.   Plug is red/brown and has a single center push release close to the wire end. It was easy push, no noise clip, then slide off without having to hold it down.   Bulb holder is tan and plug faces downwards and you rotate the plug inwards to undo. So they rotate differently on each side. Eg clockwise driver right side. Counterclockwise on passengers left side. The OEM spotlights are recessed so it can only turn the correct direction and acts as guide to put them back in as well. Holders have 3 equal keyed tabs that are a tight fit so once rotated still needed a fair bit of wriggling to start sliding backwards and out. The replacements one I put in came with new holders that had far smaller tabs so much easier to get in/out.   On the sti the side vents allow you to see in to the back of the lamps. Clearly of right, but left has the washer bottle etc in the way. Still not hard to do just a little more care needed to get bulbs around them without touching anything. I did test one side of each and it was obvious the old bulbs had faded to more yellow and brightness had dropped a lot. Old bulb was blue tinted glass and only bulbs in car that don’t have Japanese writing or branding.

Handles a little better too 😂

@PhillI haven't actively pursued this which it appears I need to do to get attention, but I discovered that the headlights switch up to high beam immediately under 80 kph.  Does this happen with you?

Some of the o-rings in the headlights especially get dry and crusty making them hard to remove. Newer cars or curved headlight's are more likely the issue, since you can’t easily get to the bulbs. eg 2008+ Impreza the parking bulb is on a bulb holder with a 6cm thin plastic handle as it’s so far inside the guard. That’s after having to remove the battery and airbox to get to the inner guard. Even a few week later trying to remove the parking lamp again without lube the o-ring had stuck again.   You can replace some, eg front indicators are a o-ring while others like outer tail lights are a custom shaped rubber seals.   i just use silicone oil on a cotton bud (q-tip) on the mating face so not to attract dust etc.