Partsouq.com put chassis code in and you can browser sections to find parts if you don’t know the number, or just the part number if you have it. amayama.com they will tell you superseded parts and what replaces them. 

Some of this is word of mouth others is personal experience.    the good  EFR turbos spool very fast and make boost low down.  The 7163 is close to a stock 48/49 twin scroll turbo but just keep going to 40psi.  They make good power and efficient so top mount is a viable option to 450whp. Bigger frame B2 make huge power and still have impressive spool. there are some hybrid Gama-Ti without the small inlet as options but they are not as good as the efr with cover swap. the bad The limited inlet side is a real problem. You need an anti surge cover SX or they choke. They are an OEM or OEM replacement turbo so while they can put out big boost in shipped form they choke.  they can’t sustain 15 degrees angle even though that’s the spec. Even 10 degrees can leak. the ugly You can’t rebuild them as there are no parts. Parts are back ordered as far back as 2019. Apparently this was as they started to move production to China in 2019 and got caught up in the pandemic so lost a lot of production time. Even now 5 years later some parts are up to 18 months back order. They like to leak oil. This is due to the lack of counter rotating grooves to push oil back. But that are also sensitive to pressure either in oil feed or crank case. Once they have leaked they seem to leak forever. Make sure you put a OPR like turbosmart inline with them from the first start. There are quite a few secondhand units floating around that leak but you can’t tell until they are running. They won’t have shaft play and can look clean, or have been cleaned.     prices have almost doubled since release so the reviews for the price point no longer stand. Factoring in $700 for a new cover they are big money.  

Hey guys, anyone know where I can get a td05 rebuild kit? Or just turbo oil seal?   Cheers

Carpet places can make mats.  They can just do the outer loop stitching on any carpet. You could get an old matching mat and cut it to shape then have them do the outer trim.  That way you get a tiny mat for the foot area. 

TLDR; Drone isn’t like road noise normal sound deadening methods don’t work well. It’s mostly about the roof and the gap between the headliner. Stuffing that with something foam or felt reduces the noise.  You should notice that drone isn’t all around you and quieter. Exhaust now comes clearly from very rear of car.      What I did that worked   Stuffing the gap and adding sound deadening to the roof skin makes a significant difference to both exhaust drone and muddy subwoofers.    What you must do is put something on the roof skin before adding so if it ever gets damp it won’t hold water next to the metal. both sound deadening or the below thermal sheet solve this   You don’t need to add heavy tar/rubber sheets but can, though that likely improve rain and hail noise the most.    If your car is a dark colour then you should cover the roof internal structure and braces at the top of windscreen. This is thin and for the top of windscreen area where you cannot place more than 2-3mm is about the only option.  Any stick on fibreglass and alloy heat wrap works. This can act as your water barrier as well. I only used this over the rails structure. And front as I didn’t know the thickness of gap around rails.    Front to back between rails structure closed cell foam 10-15mm thick was used. This is about the height of the rails so makes a level surface.    What you want is Subwoofer ‘wool’ or ‘cotton’ which is plastic and often water repellent. The most common is PET. For other materials check fire retardant properties. PET melts but does self extinguish and the headliner is partly made of this. It comes in 30-40mm thick 550mm rolls.    There is likely already felt pads glued to headliner. Remove these as this is what you are replacing with much more coverage.    Depending on the model where to put the stuffing varies. But the general idea is to cover as much of the headliner as possible. Avoid or watch out for the following areas: - windscreen upper frame as the lining almost touches it so no clearance  - Around the lights. I just puts heat wrap around this and on to foam to seal them away from foam. Maybe a good time to swap to LED bulbs.  - main rail structures. The 5-10cm wide ones where lights mount. The longing may curve in these areas to close the gap for mounting or clips.  - anywhere the headliner curves upward  - sides if you have airbags. Look to stop where the headliner starts to curve down.  Airbags blow out that area when they come down.    I taped these roughy in place for testing to make sure the headliner still when back in and wasn’t pushed out anywhere.  Once fitting correctly the stuffing was glued in place with a few squiggles or small 30mm circles of shoe glue at corners, sides and few middle points.