Fitted reverse LED. Easy job as little hatches in the rear hatch to access them. Since they are foam seal light clusters the bulbs have no o-ring to get stuck. The reverse lamps come on with engine off as long as you have double tapped start button without the clutch in. Made it easy to check they worked.   Fitted new fog or spot light bulbs.  Both are accessible from the wheel liner if you turn the wheel full lock. There are 3 black plastic panel clips on the wheel liner lower section that is outside the bumper. peal back liner as far as you can. About 15cm of the upper section that inside the metal body work is enough.   Plug is red/brown and has a single center push release close to the wire end. It was easy push, no noise clip, then slide off without having to hold it down.   Bulb holder is tan and plug faces downwards and you rotate the plug inwards to undo. So they rotate differently on each side. Eg clockwise driver right side. Counterclockwise on passengers left side. The OEM spotlights are recessed so it can only turn the correct direction and acts as guide to put them back in as well. Holders have 3 equal keyed tabs that are a tight fit so once rotated still needed a fair bit of wriggling to start sliding backwards and out. The replacements one I put in came with new holders that had far smaller tabs so much easier to get in/out.   On the sti the side vents allow you to see in to the back of the lamps. Clearly of right, but left has the washer bottle etc in the way. Still not hard to do just a little more care needed to get bulbs around them without touching anything. I did test one side of each and it was obvious the old bulbs had faded to more yellow and brightness had dropped a lot. Old bulb was blue tinted glass and only bulbs in car that don’t have Japanese writing or branding.

Handles a little better too 😂

@PhillI haven't actively pursued this which it appears I need to do to get attention, but I discovered that the headlights switch up to high beam immediately under 80 kph.  Does this happen with you?

Some of the o-rings in the headlights especially get dry and crusty making them hard to remove. Newer cars or curved headlight's are more likely the issue, since you can’t easily get to the bulbs. eg 2008+ Impreza the parking bulb is on a bulb holder with a 6cm thin plastic handle as it’s so far inside the guard. That’s after having to remove the battery and airbox to get to the inner guard. Even a few week later trying to remove the parking lamp again without lube the o-ring had stuck again.   You can replace some, eg front indicators are a o-ring while others like outer tail lights are a custom shaped rubber seals.   i just use silicone oil on a cotton bud (q-tip) on the mating face so not to attract dust etc.        

Measured temps after long drive, did a small full boost section but that was 15 mins before measuring.   intercooler top mount throttle side 43c rad and killer b upper tank. 94c intake - turbo side 68c was hotter after 10 min warm up before insulation washers - passengers side 54c  turbo - compressor side maybe 60-70 didn’t write it down, but water cooled core and upper res are next to it. - hot side and down pipe hpc coated 297c   tested new aerogel insulation with flames measuring 570c and it went from white to a grey/tan tint. But that maybe just the soot. Either way it held the temp for a few seconds after removing the flame, but the other side was still room temp. Has little smell after heating, so better than glass fibre wrap.   Next will cut section and see if it soaks up liquid, and if it’ll make the oil etc burn easier once absorbed.     Have a plan for cheap easy brake and clutch master cylinder heat shielding on the way too. Wont be needed once exhaust is wrapped, but maybe useful for others and race cars.