Hi all, I desperately need help to fix my 1999 JDM Legacy GT-B. I have a spark problem, I only have spark on cylinder 1 and 4. Here's what I did so far: -Tested all coils and spark plugs by swapping them around, they tested good -Checked for 12v in coil connector, all 4 connector have good 12v -Checked ground resistance in all coil connectors, all within spec. Even tested it under load with a small 12v dc motor -Checked continuity between trigger wire on coil and ECU connector, all good -Replaced ECU, no change -Replaced cam and crank sensor -Checked timing (all good on the cam sprocket, I would need to remove the crank pulley to confirm crank timing mark) -Inspected triggers tooth on camshaft sprocket, all good I have no clue what to look for now. If you have any idea let me know! Thanks !

Won’t it be the same as the heads, warped is warped so 0.002” or 0.05mm? What’s the removed material limit in the service manual old one was something like 0.012" or 0.30 mm. So. You need to check how much the heads have been cut.   Shouldn’t you torque the case halves to spec before any measurement or machining work?   A mirror or glass sheet is about the flattest thing I’ve found for flat polishing. Don’t forget to rotate the part often so any uneven force you apply isn’t the same angle the whole time. Just because it is flat doesn’t mean it’s square.   Lol at AI summary, searched  “skim subaru block flatness” and got a summary of your post as the answer.  

Hey all, 2004 BP 3.0 Outback.   I'm rebuilding this engine from the short block up, Had a teeny tiny external coolant drip from the head gasket above the oil cooler.....any sane person wouldn't worry about it but i saw it as an excuse to tear an EZ down and build my library of Subaru knowledge. I've had the heads hardness and crack tested and tidied up at the machine shop. I was wonder what the tolerances for flatness of the block are? obviously i'm limited to DIY methods for prepping the block. I've done the entire disassembly strictly to the FSM so far, however i can't seem to find the allowable tolerances for the block, it states the heads but not the block specs. Heads have been milled so they should be perfect, however the block.....i've used an old bathroom tile left over from a renovation with 600grit sandpaper and a lot of wd40 to clean up the block surfaces. With my feeler gauge I'm finding a gap about 0.003 or 0.004in across the block, light can also be seen from a torch. Just wondering if i should be worried about this? does anyone know what the specs should be? Will the "perfect head" surface clamp down and pull the block into a good seal? I'm using 100% OEM parts including the head gaskets. I'm also re using my head bolts but that might be a argument for another day.   Any opinions appreciated. Cheers

A 1.44" screen is only 240x240 pixels . The text, arrows etc are photoshopped since they are generated in code. The mock up is an easy way to figure out the x,y placement for the code with lines and rectangles. The green fill would change based on DCCD state.    Since its can bus connected it could read the X,Y from the yaw sensor and graph those on the left and bottom edges. individual wheel speed is also on the bus so could have tiny left to right balance for front and rear wheels.  

I had this running a year ago on a small LCD test rig.   Early 2026 have just fount cased 45mm cube with colour display that I can add canbus and 12v power converter inside.  found parts on better than usual sale at aliexpress the parts total is $20+gst plus a few wires, heatshrink etc. have to drill hole in case for power and canbus wiring to get out but it’s very tidy. Could double side tape it to the top or the steering wheel column.   Have  the same 22B image from the TPMS display and some arrows to show diff level. Will upload a screenshot later.