Refitted windows switches and they all work again. Very surprising as the passengers ones was so bad it felt like it was physically broken before taken apart. And once part the slider got stuck and felt like it had grit or bent contacts inside.   So I looked up some replacements overnight.   standard auto up/down drivers RHD https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005240228470.html but found on the later Nissans they had higher model ones with auto for 2 or all 4 windows. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006046168940.html https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004633745295.html   this would be up to the body control module BCM but since there is no additional wiring for auto it could support the additional auto functions already.        

Removed drivers door window switches as passengers switch is busted.   Pulled the top off and actual switch under rocker gets rough near the ends. Poured ethanol into the gaps and worked switch. Seems to have washed out whatever crud was inside.   It’s a Nissan part and reasonably common. Just harder to find in RHD but will order a replacement if it doesn’t work now it’s clean.

Ordered 6mm thick SiO2 Silica oxide aerogel sheet to wrap downpipe. It’s classed as incombustible, good for 800c and at 10mm thickness can reduce 650c on one side down to 50c on the other. its hydrophobic so won’t absorb liquid and chemical resistant as well.   Then going to them wrap the aerogel in common adhesive glass-fibre cloth with alloy so it has abrasion resistance.   The exhaust is already ceramic coated but it’s still getting too hot near the steering rack and both the brake and clutch master cylinders.  

Holden astra and most ev cars have similar pump and tank in one units as well.    edit.. plus  Audi Seat Skoda Volkswagen POLO FOX LUPO  like 6Q0423155AE 6Q0423155AB 6Q0423156E

That mopar way seems like a heap more effort. The Volvo should be just a matter of new supply and return lines then power. Some people even run it with no signal stuff working so it goes into a sort of limp mode and just runs a fixed percentage assist, something like 60-70%   It would be interesting to see real world amp draws on the Volvo, I’d assume it’s usually quite low and only sees anything particularly high during full lock at crawling speeds where there’s probably enough grunt in the battery to negate the shortcoming for short bursts.