Hi Everyone,   I have asked this on Facebook but did not get much of a response so I thought i would ask in here as well. I have a 04 Forester XT WR-Limited that was my daily driver for 13 years, the 4EAT expired on it and its now in my garage waiting to be repaired. I want to manual convert it and i have been putting together a list of the bits ill need to do so, have i missed anything and do you have any advice for the swap?   This is what i have so far:   Clutch/flywheel/pressure plate Starter Gearbox Front half shafts Drive shaft Rear diff (matching gearbox ratio) shifter assembly manual gauge cluster Clutch master/slave + lines 5MT pedal box Forester manual transmission cross member   I have been told the ABS could be an issue and i know the wiring will need to be modified.   Thanks in advance, Ben

nope if you're asking me Manuel

Was it a slushbox? Old autos sometimes do that on the dyno.

@Joker No-ones been able to explain the funky backwards lines but I think you can see the VOD there on the PSI chart.   The plot X axis is road speed and the line from data logged over time plotted in time order, so the run started at 90kph then dipped back to 85kph    likely caused by operator error, you can rule out car if you have other good plots. -Wheelspin from not being strapped down well. 1 strap and not at steep angle rushed at dyno day. Or too much power applied too quickly. -starting run and not giving it more gas so dyno load drags speed down.    

Yeah I started looking at custom ones a month ago because of exactly the conclusion you came to. It’s why I posted the canbus topic. Old cars rpm reading is just counting pulses and dividing that based on the number of cylinders. Eg 2 ignition events per revolution for a 4 cylinder. Every cheap micro controller can either count pulses or the time between them so it isn’t complicated.   Newer cars the ecu runs multi coil and the rpm signal is over canbus so you have to read the canbus messages and decode them. In some cases they do have a rom pulse from the dash cluster, but if you start opening dash clusters it raises flags if you ever want to verify the odometer. Over the weekend I think I have some basic canbus reading working but before I can test I need some more parts to look after the power and now waiting on an order for that.