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Longblock Build Questions


tydon

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Ok so Im looking at building up a motor strong reliable and above factory specifications.

I want something that will handle 220-260kw easily and be able to take abit of a 'hiding'

This will be a slow build and will be done bit by bit,

I've done some research and have a little bit of knowledge i personall wont be building it but will more than likely help watch and learn,

So im starting with a longblock i have attained a v1-2 CDB out of a GT legacy unknown condition which I've stripped back to a basic shortblock.

From here whats next? i need to get pistons out and check bores? if its had a bad BEB i will probably need a new crank?

Do i get the block cleaned and honed possibly bored out to suit bigger pistons?

Plans are to put some good forged pistons and rods in with a good set of bearings.

Would some factory HF3 pistons suffice or some aftermarket Wiseco etc,

I will look at either some gtb or version 3/4 sti heads as motor will be going into a version 2 wrx.

Lots of questions here hopefully some knowledgeable nice guy will shed some light on this

cheers in advance.

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 evowrx said:
Hate to be the bearer of bad news but a stock v7 sti shortie with any era sti heads would be your best and cheapest bet.

i dont mind paying abit hence why will be done bit by bit may i ask why not the earlyer CDB?

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Power level doesnt warrant a cdb. If youre going to use a cdb and do it properly you may as well convert to rear thrust and run later crank then pretty sure the oil galleries benefit from some enlarging mod people like pbms do to them but unsure on that. Reality is a V7 sti shortblock will handle that power easy as will sti heads. So if you buy a new shortie from subaru 2.5k+gst it will do the job nicely and work like a factory engine rather than having to warm up a set of forgies every time you go to get milk. You could buy a V7 sti short secondhand but by the time you refresh it you will be looking at 2.5ish so may as well just get the brand new one where all clearances etc are perfect. If a 2.5 shortie is the same price as the 2.0 from sub just get the 2.5...

So:

Shortie with oil pump/modine - $3000

Sti heads - $200-400

Genuine head gaskets - $150

Genuine valve stem seals - $40

Genuine timing kit/waterpump - $350

Genuine headbolts - $45 or ARP Head studs - $250

Skimming/machining heads - $80-120

Under 5k and you have a cheap reliable longblock.

Otherwise budget build:

CDB - Free

Crank if required - $100

Silly not to centre thrust conversion if crank required - $100ish?

Sti heads - $200-400

Late sti rods - $150 or aftermarket - $500-700

Forged pistons - $600-850

Genuine head gaskets - $150

Genuine valve stem seals - $40

Genuine timing kit/waterpump - $350

Genuine headbolts - $45 or ARP Head studs - $250

Skimming/machining $500-800

4k probably cover it at a pinch.

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