Jump to content
Please check your junk folder for registration emails ×
  • Current Donation Goals

    • Raised $0.00

Boost and Hesitation Problem 2000 BE5B RSK


Rome1017

Recommended Posts

Hey, so I've had my Legacy for about 2 and a half months now, imported from Japan. About a month and a half after owning it I started experiencing a boost issue, every now and then it would slightly hesitate if I got on boost in primary and shifted into the next gear before VoD. After the shift boost would hover at about 4psi for about 2-4 seconds (feels like forever) if I applied a fair amount of throttle or full throttle. After about 2700rpm it would start boosting properly and jump to 13 pretty quickly until either VoD or I shifted.

This problem now happens all the time if I'm applying enough throttle to get on boost in first gear (or 2...3) but only after I shift into the next gear is when I experience that slight lag.

I have also noticed that the exhaust note changes and becomes a little bit deeper and less of a burble after the shift. Leading me to believe it could be something to do with the waste gate or exhaust control. Not familiar enough with these cars to go any further than that.

If I boost into secondary it behaves just fine with no extra lag. Also if I boost in first gear, shift and then gradually apply throttle in the next gear or apply full then back off a bit it boosts fine. This issue is only present if I apply full throttle after a shift.

For mods I have done the hose 10, placing a 0.8mm restrictor pill into hose 1 to slow IACV opening speed although I didn't notice such a difference as stated here http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?40911-Inside-the-BBOD&p=526939&viewfull=1#post526939

Is there anyone that would know what could be causing this issue? Thanks!

Edited by Rome1017
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It didn’t start when you did the hose 1 mod did it? Could have a play around with that and see if it’s related. I doubt its causing anything but still if you didn’t think it had an effect then remove the pill.

Honestly it just sounds like your getting tangled up in the VOD/change over.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would think it's a bov problem but the issue happens much sooner than vod. The hose 1 does shorten vod tho. But yes the issue was there before the mod, I had hoped adding the pill would help with the hesitation.

Ok I can upload pictures of that tomorrow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's another hose #10, coming from the primary boost solenoid inside the F/L guard and running behind the battery. Is this hose connected, venting or T'd in somewhere?

Pull the BOV hose off at the manifold and suck on the hose, you should hear the BOV open. Then cover the end of the hose with your tongue and make sure it holds vac. If it wont hold pressure there's a hole in the BOV diaphragm.

Put the car into test mode (green & black plugs), so fans cycle on/off and all solenoids start clicking. While in test mode the ECV and IACV (intake air control valve under TMIC) should both be moving open/closed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So i checked the BOV, all good. Put it in test mode and it looks like the IACV is not moving at all, ECV sounds like it is though.

I removed the restrictor pill to see if this was causing it and even without it it still doesn't move. With the pill removed it still drives the same and it still boosts properly to ~16psi in secondary. what do you think could be the issue?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You should be able to see the ECV actuator rod moving in test mode:

ECV_004.jpg

The IACV is held closed with vacuum during single turbo mode:

IACV_Valve_001.jpg

With the IACV not working in test mode, it's not getting vacuum. So it's open during primary boost causing problems.

During test mode both the IACV and ECV are running off stored vacuum from the TT vacuum tank. Could be:

-Leaking/spilt hose between the manifold and BBOD, (hose 12 from manifold-BBOD feeds vacuum).

-Faulty one way valve inside the BBOD.

-Gunked up IACV solenoid in the BBOD.

-Could test the IACV diaphragm same as BOV diaphragm.

-Also check the hose at the base of the BBOD that runs into the F/R guard, this hose runs to the vacuum tank. Most likely if you've had the BBOD out recently.

The blue valve in the middle of the BBOD is the one way valve:

BBOD_Tests_010.jpg

Here's a BBOD clean out how to, for dirty/sticky solenoids:

http://www.uklegacy.com/forums/index.php/topic/11043-code-66-and-boost-issueshow-to-clean-them-out/

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the link. So when cleaning the solenoids the car should be on (not running)? I'm looking to do this tomorrow as well as test the IACV.

The one way valve (hose 12?)only allows air to flow from the bbod to the mani correct? And is hose 12s only function to feed air away from vacuum tank?

From which way should I clean the solenoids? or does it not matter?

And at idle do all the hoses that go to the bbod feed air away from it or are there any that go the opposite?

Thanks for all the help.

Edited by Rome1017
Link to comment
Share on other sites

For cleaning, have the car in test mode (ignition on/engine off). So the solenoids are opening-closing as you spray carby cleaner through them.

Doesn't matter which way the spray goes through. Some of the solenoids have a small air filter on top. You can carefully rotate the filter and slide it off, then clean out the filters too.

Correct on the one way valve flow, only from BBOD to manifold. So it wont let manifold boost through, only vacuum. It doesn't flow much at all, but definitely only one way.

Hose 12 gives manifold vacuum to the BBOD. Inside the BBOD (after the one way valve), hose 12 splits to give vacuum to the IACV solenoid, the ECV negative solenoid and the secondary relief valve negative solenoid. Then connects to the vacuum tank, which stores vacuum for the solenoids to use when the manifold is in boost.

So a complete loss of vac tank vacuum can effect 3 solenoids. IACV/ECV/Secondary relief valve.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So being that my ECV is working properly its unlikely that hose 12 or the check valve are the problem here correct? Also what does the secondary relief do exactly? And the Positive and negative ECV pressure solenoids? Would love to know each solenoid's function.

Also does it matter the pressure I spray the carb cleaner at?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Could it be a clogged IACV? I put my finger over the hose 1 nipple at the BBOD while in test mode and couldn't feel any air flow or vacuum. there is also what looks like some oil residue on the IACV. I haven't seen a CEL come on at all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Could unbolt the BBOD from the guard and pull it forward slightly. In test mode, put the tip of a flat head screwdriver on the IACV solenoid. With the screwdriver handle on your ear you should hear the solenoid clicking open/closed.

BBOD_Tests_002.jpg

If it's not clicking, then unplug the BBOD loom plug and use an external 12v to test the solenoid (speaker wire/car battery).

The IACV solenoid is the 2 white wires/pins at the BBOD loom plug:

 Rosssub said:
BBOD Wiring:

Solenoid: +/- Colour Code

ECV Duty Solenoid + Pink P

- Black B

Map Sensor + Pink P

- Green G

ecu signal White W

ECV Negative Pressure + Brown Br

- Brown Br

ECV Positive Pressure + Blue L

- Blue L

IACV Solenoid + White W

- White W

Supercharged Relief #1 + Pink P

- Pink P

Supercharged Relief #2 + Green G

- Green G

Map Vac Solenoid + Yellow Y

- Yellow Y

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I cleaned all the solenoids in the BBOD, they were all clean except for the ECV solenoid, a whole bunch of dirt popped out of that one.

They were all clicking as well while cleaning.

After the cleaning I went for a little drive, CEL 45 came on and there was no boost. The CEL soon went away but still no boost. decided to disconnect the battery for about half an hour and there still wasn't boost. Now there was a whooshing sound coming from the BBOD, thought it was just a loose hose but everything was connected fine. Pulled each out one at a time while checking with a stethoscope to see which was the problem one.

Turned out to be that I had not cleaned the filter of the Negative ECV solenoid well. That solved the boost issue.

Went for a drive and I still had the minor lag after the shift at full throttle. I made a video to show this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4KcCrGKOBo

First gear to 3rd. Shifts are at 4k rpm falling to roughly 3k in the next gear. Throttle is applied when boost rises to 0psi.

Also notice the change in exhaust note until it starts boosting again.

The only solenoid I didn't clean today was the Boost control. Could this be my issue? I will be cleaning it tomorrow.

Edited by Rome1017
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are both the IACV and ECV working in test mode? The IACV should also close on startup/at idle.

CEL 45 is the pressure change solenoid/atmospheric pressure change solenoid. Hose 11 goes from the manifold to the BBOD, to the pressure change solenoid and then to the MAP sensor.

During deceleration the pressure change solenoid blocks manifold pressure to the MAP sensor. So that the MAP sensor can read atmospheric pressure.

This pic shows the location of the MAP and pressure change solenoid (labelled as MAP feed control).

BBOD_Tests_002.jpg

Primary boost solenoid in the F/L guard:

Primary_Boost_Control_TT_004.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sweet, yeah now that the IACV is working give the primary boost solenoid a cleanout. Also back to an earlier question on your hose 10 mod:

 Rosssub said:
There's another hose #10, coming from the primary boost solenoid inside the F/L guard and running behind the battery. Is this hose connected, venting or T'd in somewhere?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recent Status Updates

    • MrSg9Sti04

      Afternoon team,
      im new to the group first time posting. Im hoping some body can help me get my launch control all dialled in on my link g4x. Ive had the computer and car all tuned from chris at prestige awesome knowlegable guy super happy with the results but now im wanting to get my launch/anti lag all dialled in. Ive been reading multiple different forums etc all with different conflicking information which has made me nervious with what do i listen to this or that if you get what i mean. Now ive started to make myself familiar with my PClink software etc the past few weeks and im eager to learn how to do minor setups or tweaks etc so im not relieing on my tuner so much and obviously saving myself abit hurt in the back pocket. 
      Now back to the question at hand.... Im wondering if theres and one who could please share there knowledge and wisdom with setting all my values, timing, fuel etc when i have launch control armed and engaged, or even a launch tune file they can possibly send me to load onto my tune. Ive figured out the setup of my digital inputs turning launch control on etc and its obvisously on its pre set factory settings. It engages but doesnt sound the greatest or as angry as it should i feel. Hence reaching out to you good buggers. 
       
      Cheers in advance for any info and help yous maybe able to give me.
       
      Cheers Shaun
      · 0 replies
    • Joker  »  gotasuby

      updated your DP's too : hope that's ok!
      · 0 replies
    • Joker  »  SAS

      Updated your DP's to reflect your business page  
      · 0 replies
    • Joker  »  Nachoooo

      Updated your Avatar : couldnt help myself  cheers!
      · 0 replies
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    40.9k
    Total Topics
    573.5k
    Total Posts


×
×
  • Create New...