Odd miss

So i should wire one end of cap to coil +12v and the other to coil ground be geaps easier than a chassis ground? Do they need to be one way like a diode or anything stupid?

Did cam test tonight it definitely has all 3 teeth on both cams. Roughly 180deg 180 360 both sides. Fluctuates slightly and unsure what offset should be. Have emailed simon again see what he says. According to help file it should be 129ish and base map has it set on 126. Tried 129 and made no difference.

 evowrx said:

So i should wire one end of cap to coil +12v and the other to coil ground be geaps easier than a chassis ground? Do they need to be one way like a diode or anything stupid?

Going by the link wiring diagrams it needs to be to coil +12v to engine/chassis ground. What sort of capacitor have you got? Looks like most have polarity markings on them:

Coils are ground to engine. Easiest to do one in each bank. One i have doesnt have polarity ill get a couple more me thinks.

Still havent tried suppressors. Simon@link said its very rare for that to cause issues these days. Will do it when old man digs a couple out.

Swapped tb with tps and iacv on it today. No better still misses when hot.

Wtf would cause miss only when its hot? Simon said to ring dave at dtech but i dont want to hassle him or anyone like that.

Have you tried the blocked intake/air compressor vac leak test?

Nope just changed every gasket and blocked all vac lines. Sprayed brakeclean and ether over everything with no result.

Be worth a shot, when it's hot. It completely rules out any chance of a vac leak/boost leak near one of the cylinders, that might not show at idle vacuum with the ether test.

If you hear a gasket face hissing at 15-18psi (mani-TGV spacers etc), but cant pinpoint it. Spray soapy water on the join and look for bubbles while you pressurize the system. Perfect time to check all your FMIC piping for boost leaks too.

Just weird its only when its hot. I wouldve done it by now i just need to catch up with an air compressor.

Think its nailed. Base map from link has 20deg at 0 tps. Was looking at why it starts at 50deg and over 1500rpm ish. Avcs turns on at 1200rpm and 50 deg. Changed avcs target table to map vs rpm and zeroed below 60kpa problem seems solved. Still has a very slight pop every so often but seems unrelated.

Wired up a relay for coils/cam sensors so they have a solid feed still need to do fuel pump.

Mildly happier.

Trying to get my head around this. so basically was the avcs set to 20deg overlap at idle causing rough idle..? or am i way off haha.

 evowrx said:

Think its nailed. Base map from link has 20deg at 0 tps. Was looking at why it starts at 50deg and over 1500rpm ish. Avcs turns on at 1200rpm and 50 deg. Changed avcs target table to map vs rpm and zeroed below 60kpa problem seems solved. Still has a very slight pop every so often but seems unrelated.

Wired up a relay for coils/cam sensors so they have a solid feed still need to do fuel pump.

Mildly happier.

Good work Sherlock...Slight pops are fine,especially so if accompanied by sheets of flame.....

Pretty much but above rpm lockout of 1200rpm.

Yea lc and flatshift are pretty awesome at night when you light up the countryside behind you.