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EJ22 N/A block getting boosted


ReubenH

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So I've picked up an EJ22 with 250,000k's on it, and I intend to slap some DOHC HLA turbo heads on there and boosting it.

Heads I want to use will either be hydraulic EJ20H, or WRX EJ20G, which is handy, as they will match the age of the block (BG7) (I head this will avoid piston/valve matchup issues). I also want to stick with this generation of motor, because I bloody well love the sound they make, it's going in a BC, and I want to keep that 20G growl.

I'm doing this on the cheap, originally I was just going to slap it together and go, and just run low boost (I already have a link in the car so can tune to suit), but the more I've thought about it, I've decided to go and replace all the bottom end beaings, and rings (can get ACL through work for cheap as chips). As far as I know, crank and rods are no different to turbo's of that era anyway, and the only things to get forged pistons were STi's, so the stock crank, rods and pistons should be fine for my purposes and tune, will be no different to working on a stock 20G.

Are there any caveats I should know of?

Does anyone have EJ22E piston dish volumes, and EJ20H/WRX EJ20G head volumes, so I can work out my compression ratios? I also want to make sure oil pressures remain up to the task, are the N/A and turbo oil pumps different (I've assumed they are the same)?

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 ReubenH said:

Are there any caveats I should know of?

Does anyone have EJ22E piston dish volumes, and EJ20H/WRX EJ20G head volumes, so I can work out my compression ratios? I also want to make sure oil pressures remain up to the task, are the N/A and turbo oil pumps different (I've assumed they are the same)?

Try this for dish volume, head cc etc.

Can't vouch 100% for the information but it has been pretty useful to me in the past.

EJ Compression Ratio Matrix

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 Marky said:
Why not just bung a turbo motor in

Or better yet just flick it and buy an RS

Ah good, I see this attitude still lurks here.

Short answer: No.

And cheers koom, might just have to rely on this for now then. Might have to measure it when we put it together.

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Dave may have found me some RS-RA heads in the fs section, the chart reckons those will give me 8.1, and not 9.2 compression. Good news for boost, but isn't there issues with mixing heads and blocks, with the early and late hydraulic engines? Afaik it's the other way round, can't put wrx heads on a legacy 20g block. Is that right?

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 ReubenH said:
Dave may have found me some RS-RA heads in the fs section, the chart reckons those will give me 8.1, and not 9.2 compression. Good news for boost, but isn't there issues with mixing heads and blocks, with the early and late hydraulic engines? Afaik it's the other way round, can't put wrx heads on a legacy 20g block. Is that right?

I thought the issue was early heads on an ej20r (or k) block?

But it's been a looong time since I played with factory internals so i may be completely off track?

Is it really worth turbo'ing a 2.2 that's got standard internals? I just really hate those weak rods, even the turbo engine ones. A set of eagles are pretty cheap these days aren't they?

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The rods are no different to anything turbo of that era. I have my possum Bourne block in the wagon which has taken my abuse for 70,000ks now, and that's the go to car when I really want to drive. Nah, this is a fun project to teach me the basics of slapping all this gear together, to put in my daily, as an alternate to fixing the 250T on the street (will take my 20D out if the BC to put in that thing instead).

I suppose you have to understand the motive and application to understand the build. This is not a power monster to compete with the ChCh machines, it's just my daily. With boost. The car it's going in is my second child (Beast being the first), it's a BC3 Ti Type-S (so no chrome other than the bump strips from factory), that I picked up for $500 as a fix'n'flic, that I have:

Manual converted

20D converted

it's running an STi 20K manifold

turbo crossmember and headers with a 250T up/downpipe

has a 4-plug GT loom, is running presently on a possum link

has alloy control arms, k-brace, 20mm sway bars, rear subframe locking bolts, bilsteins, GTB brakes to go in, BH GTB booster

and has a totally rust free chassis, and silky black paint

interior is mostly upgraded to GT spec (foot well and ignition barrel lights 'n' all), with black leather seats and door card inserts to be fitted.

It's my mongrel, MY mongrel, this has been hit with the Reuben option pack and I'd have nothing else.

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This is just a thread about asking the questions I need answered on what can be mix'n'matched, as you can see, something I like doing.

If you want to see the cars build thread, it's on DOBC, and will not be getting posted on clubsub, because it would just be filled with "why don't you flick it and buy an RS" "Why are you putting a link on a non turbo" "why don't you get an impreza" "why don't you go AVCS twinscroll EZ36 6spd brembo". No.

Edited by ReubenH
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 ReubenH said:
The rods are no different to anything turbo of that era. I have my possum Bourne block in the wagon which has taken my abuse for 70,000ks now, and that's the go to car when I really want to drive. This is a fun project to teach me the basics of slapping all this gear together, to put in my daily, as an alternate to fixing the 250t on the street (will take my 20D out if the bc to put in that thing instead).

Yeah, gotta understand the motive and application to understand the build. This is not a power monster to compete with the ChCh machines, it's just my daily. With boost.

And to all those confused about the car it's going in, it's a BC3 Ti, that I've manual converted, 20D converted, it's running an STi 20K manifold, turbo crossmember and headers with a 250t up/downpipe, has a 4-plug loom, is running presently on a possum link, and has a totally rust free chassis, interior is mostly upgraded to GT spec (foot well and ignition barrel lights 'n' all), with black leather seats and door card inserts. It's my mongrel, MY mongrel, and I'd have nothing else.

That, that was beautiful reuben, I just, shed a tear of joy, for art and love still exist.

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That at least makes sense then

I've had high-comp +T motors in the past (not subarus mind) and they are great to drive compared to factory turbo motors, key thing obviously being they aren't time bombs but the link sorts that out

If it makes the right noises and gives you lols then go nuts I reckon

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Yeah sorry guys, I added some edits to that post.

I should point out no digs to any of you, it's just the reason I left CS is the "why don't you..." comments, I just like doing what I do, and occasionally I need help with the finer points.

Thanks all for your help btw!

Oh, further research today did come up with wrx era heads don't work on leggy 20G era blocks, due to the flat pistons with tiny valve recessed. Vice versa is fine, leggy 20G heads will work great with BG/wrx dished pistons, and the compression ratio will be dramatically knocked back (9.7:1 down to 8.1:1, perfect for boost). It's almost like the stars have aligned for these RS-RA heads to go on this BG 2.2. I would have liked to play with a 9:1 turbo motor, but hey, this build is dictated by tides and the wind in the trees, the only parts i've actually hunted for are the leather seats, and the 20K manifold, literally EVERYTHING else either was in the garage, was offered to me, or popped up on the clubs for a silly price. This whole build, from Ti to now, owes me less than a grand (wheels and tyres not withstanding).

Edited by ReubenH
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That looks rather straight and tidy!

If it's a low boost daily, then the rods will probably be adequate and probably not the bottleneck on a hybrid motor.

I just don't like those early rods as they don't handle revs. But my engines did also used to live up around the red line.

If it does have compression issues with your chosen mixture, you could just fix that the old school way with thicker (or thinner) head gaskets. Just need to be extra careful with valve to piston clearance and it's nice if you can achieve a quench height that isn't blown out too big if thicker gaskets are necessary.

I also wouldn't be too afraid of running it with the compression around 9:1. Should mean less boost is needed and more responsive.

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Yeah, that 8.1 figure is from that chart, apparently running the thickest gaskets (1.3mm or something). I'd love to drop the thickness down to something a bit more normal, but I need to be sure that the pistons and valves will be friendly with eachother if I do that. Theory is one thing, but I like to see these things with my own eyes.

I too drive to the redline, but I've been doing it to many first gens, and none have spat the dummy. Well frank with her wrx 20g now overheats, suspect minor HG, and Leo the bc GT snapped a cambelt, but that's cause we didn't know it's age, and got lazy. But no big ends, rods or lifter issues in the whole fleet (there's 7 cars including my two babies). So I'm going to go on a limb and trust these stock rods. If they fail me I have a second block that's kicking around, but I don't think I could live with myself having taken out a set of RS-RA heads. Keep the redline at 7500 and I should be right :P I never drop clutches or drive with the disrespect other cars seem to handle, maybe that's the trick?

You have me thinking though, just how much are rods these days? They sure were expensive enough when I did beasts motor.

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Dave, your words, you know, they really speak to me, in a meaningful way. I understand now!

Edit: You forgot to tell me to slam it though. With the extra power I'll have I won't need the ride heigh to go over the snow, I'll just power through the snow. And the DCCD will give me better traction!

So, you got a spare 15k I can borrow?

Edited by ReubenH
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 ReubenH said:

You have me thinking though, just how much are rods these days? They sure were expensive enough when I did beasts motor.

Rods are cheap. Even the m&h ones from sta parts are apparently good for moderate builds.

1.3mm gaskets aren't that bad if the pistons come up to the top of the block.

Also, a 2.2L block needs a 79mm crank! But thats a whole new hybrid kettle of fish to throw money into.

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