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Stripping EJ208, Short Block Separation.


Rosssub

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This EJ208 Engine, OEM from my BH5B (auto is EJ206). Both Phase 2 Engines.

It\'s done 214,000 kms, let\'s see how the Bores/Pistons/BEB look. ;D

I already had the Sump/Oil Pick Up/Baffle off. This pic shows the Oil Pick Up, notice the Gauze/Mesh in the Base of the Pick Up:

Sump_003.jpg

I also already had the Block Coolant Pipe off. Soak the Bolts in CRC, they like snapping from rust. I broke the first one, then soaked the rest in CRC and they came out easy:

Block_Water_Pipe_Version_5_STI.jpg

I then removed the Engine Mounts. The Oil Cooler would normally come off now. But I don\'t have a 24mm Socket deep enough, to get over the Oil Filters Thread/Shaft. It can stay for now:

Splitting_EJ208_001.jpg

I then flipped the Block on end and removed the Front \'Piston Pin\' Service Plugs. Then rotated the Crank until Cylinder 1 and Cylinder 2 Piston Pins line up with the Service Holes:

Splitting_EJ208_002.jpg

Then the Piston Pin Keeper Clips, can be removed:

Splitting_EJ208_003.jpg

Both front Service Plugs out, Pin Clips removed and Pistons lined up:

Splitting_EJ208_004.jpg

I then removed the Rear Service Plugs. Kidney Plate and "that little" Service Cover removed:

Splitting_EJ208_006.jpg

Removed both Rear Piston Pin Clips. Then inserted a Rod (chainsaw file) through the rear Service hole (cyl 4). To press out the Front Piston Pin (cyl 2). I used a rubber Mallet to tap the Piston Pin out:

Splitting_EJ208_008.jpg

Piston Pin now protruding out the Front Service Hole:

Splitting_EJ208_009.jpg

Cylinder # 2 Piston Pin removed. The Piston is now separated from the Connecting Rod:

Splitting_EJ208_010.jpg

Cylinder # 1 Piston Pin removed:

Splitting_EJ208_011.jpg

Then used the Crank Pulley to rotate the Crank, until both front Pistons are at TDC (top dead centre). Then used a small thin Screwdriver to push the Piston Head out:

Splitting_EJ208_012.jpg

Cylinder # 1 Piston removed:

Splitting_EJ208_013.jpg

I used a bent piece of thick Wire to push Piston # 2 out:

Splitting_EJ208_014.jpg

This shows 214,000km worth of Piston Skirt Wear. #1 left/#2 Right. Also Right Piston is upside down, showing bottom:

Splitting_EJ208_015.jpg

I then rotated the Crank again, until both Rear Piston Pins line up with the Rear Service Holes. Then used the Rod again to remove the Rear Piston Pins.

I used the Screwdriver again to remove Piston # 4. Then realised I could just reach straight through the open Bore, past the Crank, to press out the last Piston (cyl 3). So out came the Fire Poker:

Splitting_EJ208_016.jpg

Pic showing Bore Wear in Cylinder 1. Vertical Wear Marks, also a defined Lip from Piston Ring Wear:

Splitting_EJ208_025.jpg

All four Pistons now out, I removed the Oil Pump from the front of the Block. Unbolted then lightly pried off with a Flathead Screwdriver. The Crank Timing Sprocket just pulls off:

Splitting_EJ208_018.jpg

I then removed all 5 Upper Block Connecting Bolts (12mm):

Splitting_EJ208_019.jpg

I then removed the Rear Block Connecting Bolt. (10mm)

Splitting_EJ208_021.jpg

Then removed what I\'ve nick named the "Barstard Bolt" (10mm), hiding behind the Oil Pick Up inside the Sump. If missed or forgotten, the Block will break when separated:

Barstard_Bolt_001.jpg

The 2 front Block Connecting Bolts are a 12 point, 12mm Socket. My trusty old Bacho Building Socket Set has let me down, once again. I hammered a 6 Point Socket over one Bolt, but stripped it so I\'ve stopped for now:

Splitting_EJ208_020.jpg

There are also 6 x 12mm Bolts, hidden inside the Block. 2 in the Left Half, 4 in the Right Half. Deep in beside the Bores, also 12mm/12point Bolts:

Splitting_EJ208_023.jpg

Edit: I\'m heading out to find a 12mm 12 point Socket now...More pics up soon. ;)

Sorted. :)

Because I don\'t have an Engine Stand, I\'ve had to Clamp the Block to the Table. Then use a Power Bar on the 12mm Main Connecting Bolts. Both left hand Main Block Connecting Bolts removed:

Crank_out_004.jpg

Then spun the Block 180\', then removed the 4 Main Block Connecting Bolts from inside the Right Hand Half:

Crank_out_005.jpg

Then removed the 2 Right Hand, Rear Main Bolts:

Crank_out_007.jpg

Then rolled the Block onto it\'s side, sitting on Cylinder #2 & #4:

Crank_out_008.jpg

Then worked my way around the Outside of the Block. Gently prying where I could, around the Main Join, using my Long Socket Extension. Lifting maybe 1mm at a time, both ends popped up fairly easy. Then I slowly lifted the Upper/Right Hand Side of the Block away, being careful not to let the Con Rods hit/scrape the Bores.

Crank_out_009.jpg

The Crank Shaft can now be lifted out. I\'ve left it in and removed a couple of Connecting Rod (con rod) Caps, to see how the Connecting Rods Big End Cap Bearings are (BEB):

This is one of the Connecting Rod Big End Cap Bearings:

Crank_out_018.jpg

This is the Front Crank Main Bearing in the Right Half:

Crank_out_015.jpg

The bearings tap out easily, with the handle of a hammer. Right Side Block Half, Crank Main Bearing removed:

Crank_out_014.jpg

This is the Cylinder #1, Piston Connecting Rod, Big End Bearing.

Crank_out_020.jpg

All Bearings/Journals show the same wear, I\'ll try and get some better photo\'s tomorrow.

I lifted the Crankshaft out slowly, lifting at each end. Watching the Con Rod\'s that are still connected don\'t hit anything. This is the Crank, with the 2 Connecting Rods I\'ve removed:

Crank_out_025.jpg

This is my EJ208 BH5B TT Short Block, disassembled and set out:

Crank_out_027.jpg

My Engine Exploded..... ;D

Crank_out_028.jpg

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haha don\'t worry I used similar tools. No block needed thanks =) . . My long block is currently good to go now so I\'m looking at adding the easy bits to finish her off (and do my first cam belt yikes/ dreading moment of truth time) . On a side note I found taking the piston pins out, rotating the crank so the piston was at the top of the cylinder, then using my fingers to twist the piston around half a notch worked well - when you rotate the crank again the top of the conrod pushes on the bottom of the piston (opposed to sliding through the middle) and hey presto pistons pop themselves right out =). Its good seeing the way other people go about things though, normally I\'m doing it the wrong way =D

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 Ben said:

haha don\'t worry I used similar tools. No block needed thanks =) . . My long block is currently good to go now so I\'m looking at adding the easy bits to finish her off (and do my first cam belt yikes/ dreading moment of truth time) . On a side note I found taking the piston pins out, rotating the crank so the piston was at the top of the cylinder, then using my fingers to twist the piston around half a notch worked well - when you rotate the crank again the top of the conrod pushes on the bottom of the piston (opposed to sliding through the middle) and hey presto pistons pop themselves right out =). Its good seeing the way other people go about things though, normally I\'m doing it the wrong way =D

Nice, you just taught me a new trick. Thanks ;D

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  • 9 months later...

Did you note the order that the conrods came off the crank for reassembly? I am just curious as i watched a few vids of these being pulled down and they seemed to think the order was important. I guess if your reusing bearings and other parts due to the wear on the items it would make sense but I would have thought that if your going to changed everything it wouldn't matter so much.

It could be of course that my questions are silly to people who know better but its where my knowledge of these engines is at, at the moment and I am curious now to pull one down, got to clear the garage first though as the one here is a pigsty to work in.

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