Aftermarket alarm + turbo timer clash

Is there any way of tricking the alarm system into thinking the car is off when it actually is on from the turbo timer? Coz I can't seem to lock my car with the remote without having the turbo timer counted down. Have tried to use a diode, but it doesn't work I don't know what I'm doing.

I know you can utilise a relay into this, but I can't think of anything!

Help?

i have the same prob....options anyone

I was told how to do it by an installer using two diods. It tricked the alarm into thinking the car wasn't running when the turbo timer was on. This was potentially unsafe as someone could jump into the car while the turbo timer was ticking down and just keep on extending the turbo timer count down while driving off. So I decided not to use the "trick" and to just wait until the turbo timer switches off.

If you still want to trick the alarm let me know, I am sure I can find the diagram the alarm guy drew for me.

not meaning to sound like a smart arse but maybe a new alarm with a inbuilt turbo timer mite help

I just took my car to a sparky and got them to do all the hard work

 arsenal69 said:

I just took my car to a sparky and got them to do all the hard work

Rather not pay the money for something i could possibly do myself

That is true, guess it could be a final option if all else fails

How much did it cost, my alarm only cost me $120 to install...no special features like armed and on timer tho

 arsenal69 said:

I just took my car to a sparky and got them to do all the hard work

Yea, does seem like the easiest thing to do. I have installed a few alarms now, enough to know what I am doing and I can say not all installers do a very good job. I.e. easily by passed to get car going. At least when you do it your self you don't mind taking you time to make it very hard for someone to bypass it. And that way no installer knows where you have hidden the gps txter.

When I had it done cost 80, that was a few years ago though.

They did it in such a way that when turbo timer is running the car is basically off apart from the motor, steering lock can be engaged too

 Treecrusher said:

Yea, does seem like the easiest thing to do. I have installed a few alarms now, enough to know what I am doing and I can say not all installers do a very good job. I.e. easily by passed to get car going. At least when you do it your self you don't mind taking you time to make it very hard for someone to bypass it. And that way no installer knows where you have hidden the gps txter.

I'm not very good with wires and the like lol

What sort of alarm is it?

Dynatron ones use a replacement turbo override chip over the normal one, easy to replace and about $5 (at dealer price) or so to obtain one.

Two choices of chip are generally avail. one to allow an aftermarket turbo timer (my preferred method) or another with a built in (usually 1 min) turbo timer.

I'm sure other makes/models (AVS, mongoose, etc..) have similar avail

 Treecrusher']

This was potentially unsafe as someone could jump into the car while the turbo timer was ticking down and just keep on extending the turbo timer count down while driving off.

My turbo timer de-activates with the handbrake being disengaged. Chances are, that when someone attempts to steal my car, they'll need to put the handbrake down.. Handbrake down - Turbo timer switches off - car switches off - car steal fail.

Would be nice if you can post up the diagram bro!

[quote name='spark_38 said:

It's a Uniden VS2600 if it helps lol

Ok I will try and explain this diagram but if it doesn't make sense I will upload the diagram tomorrow.

You will need two diodes each connected to the Ignition input on your alarm system. Each diode should let current travel towards your alarm. (i.e. you will now have two wires able to supply current to your alarms ignition input wire, but current will not travel back down the opposing wire.)

Your turbo timer will likely have four wires maybe five, all power wires will be connected to wires traveling to your ignition. One connected to constant power, second connected to Acc (i.e. power when key switched to acc, but no power when the key is switched off), the third connected to ignition (i.e. power when your "reds" are on), fourth will be ground and there may be a fifth connected to your handbrake.

Cut the turbo timer wire connected to the Acc and blank it off.

Now connect one of the diode wires to Acc and connect the other to a wire that has 12 volts during start.

Let me know if this is to confusing, if it is I will upload the diagram.

 Treecrusher said:

Ok I will try and explain this diagram but if it doesn't make sense I will upload the diagram tomorrow.

You will need two diodes each connected to the Ignition input on your alarm system. Each diode should let current travel towards your alarm. (i.e. you will now have two wires able to supply current to your alarms ignition input wire, but current will not travel back down the opposing wire.)

Your turbo timer will likely have four wires maybe five, all power wires will be connected to wires traveling to your ignition. One connected to constant power, second connected to Acc (i.e. power when key switched to acc, but no power when the key is switched off), the third connected to ignition (i.e. power when your "reds" are on), fourth will be ground and there may be a fifth connected to your handbrake.

Cut the turbo timer wire connected to the Acc and blank it off.

Now connect one of the diode wires to Acc and connect the other to a wire that has 12 volts during start.

Let me know if this is to confusing, if it is I will upload the diagram.

yes please

 Treecrusher said:

Ok I will try and explain this diagram but if it doesn't make sense I will upload the diagram tomorrow.

You will need two diodes each connected to the Ignition input on your alarm system. Each diode should let current travel towards your alarm. (i.e. you will now have two wires able to supply current to your alarms ignition input wire, but current will not travel back down the opposing wire.)

Your turbo timer will likely have four wires maybe five, all power wires will be connected to wires traveling to your ignition. One connected to constant power, second connected to Acc (i.e. power when key switched to acc, but no power when the key is switched off), the third connected to ignition (i.e. power when your "reds" are on), fourth will be ground and there may be a fifth connected to your handbrake.

Cut the turbo timer wire connected to the Acc and blank it off.

Now connect one of the diode wires to Acc and connect the other to a wire that has 12 volts during start.

Let me know if this is to confusing, if it is I will upload the diagram.

Can we please have a diagram?

Cheers

Hmmmm... never tried that - may have to experiment at some stage.

The Accessory wire is the blue one off the turbo timer. so diode >| towards timer

The Constant 12V wire is the red one off the turbo timer

The Ignition wire is either green or yellow off turbo timer depending on make/model. so diode >| towards timer

The Ground wire is usually black

Make sure you use heavy duty >5W diodes, the small ones usually burn out as they can't handle the current draw

I don't usually connect the handbrake, rev, speed, or 02 sensor wires.

remove the turbotimer

not really nec unless u thrash then shut off(unlikely)

 DRFVDR said:

remove the turbotimer

not really nec unless u thrash then shut off(unlikely)

Yea and required even less if you install a ball bearing turbo ;D

Will these work?

http://www.dse.co.nz/dse.shop/49ee85fc016be7262744c0a87f3b071e/Product/View/Z3229

 _rsk_ said:

Will these work?

http://www.dse.co.nz/dse.shop/49ee85fc016be7262744c0a87f3b071e/Product/View/Z3229

They look them same as the ones I was given. But I don't know really.

6 amps seems like it would be enough though. AFAIK the alarm ignition input would't draw that much current.

message _rsk_ just before the old forums went down i made him up a wiring diagram to do it with his uniden alarm. he's now got it all in and working

oops duh it is you haha, move the ignition sense wire to the acc wire. simple fix

I know this was posted up a very long time ago, but I have had to search forums and refer this onto several EVO and WRX owners. Perhaps sticky?