Dumb Question Thread!

so today after work i decided i will attempt to fix this

but upon closer inspection the to bolts that should be holding it in place are not their but their are none at all

It dose look like they had be removed but when the have been the bolt has snapped

dose anyone have any ides on how to fix or dose this part of the intake do anything positive or can i just remove it

Find someone with a rivnut tool, take 5 minutes too fix.

Or just drill the munted nut out, and stick a nut on the back of the bolt if you can reach in there.

I have rivnuts pm me

Does a 1998 BH9 legacy wagon have a heated windscreen. Im guessing no, but need to clarify for replacement screen.

 SpeedySub said:

Does a 1998 BH9 legacy wagon have a heated windscreen. Im guessing no, but need to clarify for replacement screen.

Does it have the heater element bits where the wipers sit?

 Percy said:

Does it have the heater element bits where the wipers sit?

I can't see any, Im guessing they would be pretty obvious looking at the screen from the outside

 SpeedySub said:

I can't see any, Im guessing they would be pretty obvious looking at the screen from the outside

They're obvious, similar looking to de-fogging lines on the rear window but thicker. Plus there should be a button to turn the heaters on.

 sobanoodle said:

They're obvious, similar looking to de-fogging lines on the rear window but thicker. Plus there should be a button to turn the heaters on.

No wires there and no button, so all good with the non heated window on order.

Thanks for the help

How hard is it to install wing mirrors that have indicators in them into a car that doesn't have indicators in it's wing mirrors?

 B4 I was 250T said:

How hard is it to install wing mirrors that have indicators in them into a car that doesn't have indicators in it's wing mirrors?

Those are just the covers that go on top of your existing mirrors (double sided tape). Subaru accessory, p/n SAA3050500. Strongs had a few of those for sale.

Plug'n'play wiring wise if you get them with a harness.

Yeah except those aren't the ones lol These are carbon fibre ones I've found. Anyways how do I do it? Run wiring from fender indicators or get auto sparky in?

install wee Leds into wing mirror and run from fender repeaters

 Percy said:

Does anyone know what is actually done to the computer when retuning a Rev A-C?

I'm guessing they need to change the chip so it can be reflashed?

A manual tap will do the job as well as an ebc if not better with the setup a legacy has

No, they use a daughterboard setup - brand name is ESL from memory. Your money is far better spent elsewhere for the cost:gain comparison, or keep your eyes peeled for a plugin jap ECU (mine's, zerosports etc) or just go to single turbo (or trade it for a rev D which can be reflashed)

 tydon said:

Is it possible to trick a twin turbo ecu in bg legacy to run a single turbo setup temporarily?

Yes, the same way as when you trick them to run parallel. I forget the hose numbers, you need to plumb the vacuum hose which "normally" goes to the top of the ecv into the secondary side of the map/differential sensor. It makes the ECU believe it still sees primary boost, then secondary changeover, even though it's just a placebo

 Marky said:

A manual tap will do the job as well as an ebc if not better with the setup a legacy has

No, they use a daughterboard setup - brand name is ESL from memory. Your money is far better spent elsewhere for the cost:gain comparison, or keep your eyes peeled for a plugin jap ECU (mine's, zerosports etc) or just go to single turbo (or trade it for a rev D which can be reflashed)

Roger that, might invest in one of them soon then, along with a gauge so I know whats happening!

Can a Rev-D ECU be swapped into a Rev-C relatively easily? Or is it a massive hassle changing wiring looms and MAF sensors etc?

Where can I get some blanking caps from (I think that's what they called), need to block a few small inlets, roughly 10mm in diameter.

 Percy said:

Roger that, might invest in one of them soon then, along with a gauge so I know whats happening!

Can a Rev-D ECU be swapped into a Rev-C relatively easily? Or is it a massive hassle changing wiring looms and MAF sensors etc?

Its the latter option sorry, not really something in the realm of worthwhile-doing-ness by any stretch. Literally a far simpler & better option to trade up to the newer model or just go single turbo on the older model (which is one of the simplest "big" changes you can do with any suby - it's not a big job at all and well, well worth the trouble)

 boon said:

Pickapart

Turned out to be a bit of a mission, tried 8 different places - no one had them. Ended up at Mitre 10, bought some 12mm anti-scratch floor protector caps for chairs

I've got a clunking feel from my front left wheel (passenger) at realllllllllllllly slow de/acceleration in a straight line. Done figure 8s in a parking lot and nada, the only time its ever happened when turning is FULL lock to the right trying to back down a tight corner in my driveway.

Most likely be the CV or is there a possibility of it going deeper ie FRONT, not centre , diff?

checked the hub nut is tight ? jacked it up and given the wheel a good boot back n forward? . centre diff problems cant be traced to an individual wheel . and if you mean front diff then even that only narrows it to both front wheels

Wheels balanced? Weight fallen off?