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Dumb Question Thread!


Jambun

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How much more whooshy whooshy sounds should there be with a catless downpipe? Currently its alot louder than i was expecting it to be so not sure if its normal or whether i've missed something. Have gone over most of the connections on the intake side and haven't come across anything not tightened yet

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 Andy_Mac said:
How much more whooshy whooshy sounds should there be with a catless downpipe? Currently its alot louder than i was expecting it to be so not sure if its normal or whether i've missed something. Have gone over most of the connections on the intake side and haven't come across anything not tightened yet

More boost more woosh

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 Andy_Mac said:
It seems to be boosting less if anything, but trying not to push it untill i have time to do some logging.

Breathing better means less boost for same or greater return in ideal world but overboost after decreasing egbp is caused as boost control needs changing to suit.

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Damaged/cracked or missing teeth. Here's the BH front tone ring:

Front_wheel_bearings_020.jpg

Then rear:

Last_bearing_004.jpg

Try soaking the axle splines in breakaway, then use a block of wood and a sledgehammer to break the axle free. My rears were so seized I had to remove the whole trailing arm and put it in a 20 ton press:

Last_bearing_001.jpg

Last_bearing_003.jpg

Even this hydraulic puller couldn't budge them while still on the car:

Hub_Wheel_Bearing_Change_011.jpg

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 Rosssub said:
Damaged/cracked or missing teeth. Here's the BH front tone ring:

BP/BL Legacy doesn't use a tone ring, it uses magnetic encoder strips on the circumference of the hub, they're pretty fragile too unfortunately.

evljat is that a front or rear sensor? I have a couple as I have a persistent ABS error that I'm slowly diagnosing...

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Put the front wheels up on ramps or blocks of wood. Then get someone to turn the steering wheel side to side, while you lay under the car listening/looking for play. Could be the inner rack end where the split boot was:

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?46152-inner-rack-joint&highlight=rack+ends

Could be a worn out bush that holds the steering rack to the chassis. Could be an outer tie rod end or ball joint. Or worn front/rear bush on the lower A-arm:

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?40802-Rosssub-s-Suspension-Bush-Upgrade/page2

Edited by Rosssub
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My HKS SSQV BOV was leaking so I just replaced the stock bov. Is it possible to fix the leaking for HKS BOV? If yes, can I DIY or how much to get it fix?

And yes I know the stock bov is good enough but sometimes miss the sound so just wondering if I can still fix it or I should get the new one as the fixing cost is not worth it.

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 boon said:
BP/BL Legacy doesn't use a tone ring, it uses magnetic encoder strips on the circumference of the hub, they're pretty fragile too unfortunately.

evljat is that a front or rear sensor? I have a couple as I have a persistent ABS error that I'm slowly diagnosing...

So those ones i had didn't fix your problem?

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 lachlan said:
Is it genuine ? Also where was leaking ? Main boost out the vent or the actuator end leaks externally or internally ?

Pull it apart and see whats up

Got it from redline performance more than a year ago so it seems genuine. I replaced the bov first to see if the leak from the bov or the turbo, after that it ran smooth so don't have time to check the leaking on bov yet. No idea about this stuff so how can I check where the leaking coming from? Symptom was the pssssh sound when the rev go higher than 2.5k (my leg still on the pedal), the turbo still working but not as fast as usual, no leaking at idle

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