Dumb Question Thread!

 Percy said:

I do know they can be done, I think it requires changing the chip, or otherwise hacking internals in the computer rather than plugging in a laptop.

The downpipes and cats on mine are rather haggard, so when they finally die I will upgrade them to something better, along with a couple of other things, which will require a tune of some sort.

There is a ZS controller on tardeme at the moment, however I don't have the $280 the guy is asking, which I think is to much anyway.

Just smash the cats or cut them out.

there is a lot of material left to bore out the wastegate hole . well there is on a vf18 . its like a 16 mm hole and the flap is 23 ish . took it to 19 20 mm ish and have 0 issues

while on that subject . what model was the last twin turbo ? the 2003 ? and was the ecu tunable at all or not ? and which turbos did it come with ?

im familiar with bg series but yeah

Only S-edition came stock with 4pots front, single pot rear. The rest were 2/1.

I know this will have been asked before but wanted some up to date opinions - good daily/spirited driving break pads?

Also thoughts on slotted rotors? Worthwhile or no?

 BINKZ said:

I know this will have been asked before but wanted some up to date opinions - good daily/spirited driving break pads?

Also thoughts on slotted rotors? Worthwhile or no?

Bendix gct and standard rotors. Can sort you a deal on both if reqd.

 Andy_Mac said:

Can you get all whiteline stuff evowrx or just certain bits?

Anything but some of it like d bushes just arent worth doing only couple bucks between buying local so freight kills it.

 Andy_Mac said:

Alrighty. Just after the KCA399 rear control arm camber bush but i'll see how it works out locally

Those arent cheap flick me a pm on tues if i forget as on the road tomorrow.

 evowrx']Just smash the cats or cut them out.

[quote name='Andy_Mac said:

What Andy Mac said.

The poor old girl has clicked over 235k, so anything more than a very slight boost increase, and she'll probably pop her clogs!

Boring out the wastegate isn't an issue for me particularly, just need to get getting a tune sorted before doing all these things.

 Percy said:

What Andy Mac said.

The poor old girl has clicked over 235k, so anything more than a very slight boost increase, and she'll probably pop her clogs!

Boring out the wastegate isn't an issue for me particularly, just need to get getting a tune sorted before doing all these things.

Well like you said it will need a tune if you upgrade down pipes. Smashing cats out has same effect as aftermarket downpipe with no expense. Turbos are piss little i doubt bigger down pipes will make any difference.

 evowrx said:

Well like you said it will need a tune if you upgrade down pipes. Smashing cats out has same effect as aftermarket downpipe with no expense. Turbos are piss little i doubt bigger down pipes will make any difference.

Having had another look at my downpipes, I think any smashing even near them will probably destroy them completely!

Will pull a heat shield off sometime to confirm the rustyness, but from the bits visible outside the heat shields they are pretty toasted.

 evowrx said:

Bendix gct and standard rotors. Can sort you a deal on both if reqd.

Sweet thanks man - will take you up on that offer re the pads next pay. Need to assess if i actually need new rotors or not if stock ones are sufficient.

 BINKZ said:

Sweet thanks man - will take you up on that offer re the pads next pay. Need to assess if i actually need new rotors or not if stock ones are sufficient.

Stock ones are fine dude just check thickness and wear.

 Percy said:

Having had another look at my downpipes, I think any smashing even near them will probably destroy them completely!

Will pull a heat shield off sometime to confirm the rustyness, but from the bits visible outside the heat shields they are pretty toasted.

You don't need a tune, people have been opening them up for years

Whip the cats out, if it overboosts just turf the factory boost control as its sh!t anyway (I don't know why you'd keep it), ignore the E-advice about needing a tune

Chuck on a FMIC and boost tap, run it at 16psi or so and enjoy the 180ish WKW it gives. They can make ok power just fine with the factory ecu already, the biggest bottleneck on these cars is the munty boost control and the interheater

Best thing I did on my last one was swapping out the primary for a VF27 and chucking a front mount on, it's a simple job and combined with a relief valve for boost control legit near eliminated the VOD, switched over more akin to a batmo or supra rather than the massive dip they normally have

Rev A-B-C and BD shape legacies -can- be retuned but the cost outweighs the point, if going to that extent you'd be better off going single churbro. Rev D can be reflashed by any monkey with a $200 tactrix cable and wideband

Can anyone list different rear end link brands? I've looked at Whiteline but wanting some other options if possible? And will Group N engine mounts work on a BE Legacy? Oh and final question which has been bugging me for hours- can actuator rods be upgraded and is there any benefit? Saw aftermarket ones on ebay...

Best boss kit for v4 sti with a momo airbag wheel?

36 spline 14mm?

Car is getting certed in a few weeks.

 Marky said:

You don't need a tune, people have been opening them up for years

Whip the cats out, if it overboosts just turf the factory boost control as its sh!t anyway (I don't know why you'd keep it), ignore the E-advice about needing a tune

Chuck on a FMIC and boost tap, run it at 16psi or so and enjoy the 180ish WKW it gives. They can make ok power just fine with the factory ecu already, the biggest bottleneck on these cars is the munty boost control and the interheater

Best thing I did on my last one was swapping out the primary for a VF27 and chucking a front mount on, it's a simple job and combined with a relief valve for boost control legit near eliminated the VOD, switched over more akin to a batmo or supra rather than the massive dip they normally have

Rev A-B-C and BD shape legacies -can- be retuned but the cost outweighs the point, if going to that extent you'd be better off going single churbro. Rev D can be reflashed by any monkey with a $200 tactrix cable and wideband

Interesting, I could make me own downpipes, they aren't that complicated.

I'll keep my eyes peeled for an EBC thingy, I think my factory stuff is being weird anyway, cleaning it out didn't seem to make any difference to the weirdness, which it should have considering how much crap was in it.

With your hose 10 mod, and the hose 1 mod the VOD is pretty minimal (when things aren't being weird!) on my car, its more boost then transition to moar BOOST!

Does anyone know what is actually done to the computer when retuning a Rev A-C?

I'm guessing they need to change the chip so it can be reflashed?

 Andy_Mac said:

Would have to be pretty confident in what you're doing to start enlarging the wastegate hole, woud be too worried i'd end up going to far myself.

Rev d is the last one for jdm/nz. And yea tunable. They would be 26/27 i believe. My rev c had 31/32. Seem to be a few 2003's around, not many though. Think the last year or so models came stock with 4/2pots rather than 2/1. Read that somewhere a while back.

why do you say this about boring the waste gate hole ? take the housing off . it sits flat on a piece of stock and run a big drill through it . ? you can clearly see how much area the flapper covers .

my boost controll is a vac hose straight to actuator with a spring i bought at mitre 10 and tuned ( stopped and hooked on to things further away ) on the way home haha .

Is it possible to trick a twin turbo ecu in bg legacy to run a single turbo setup temporarily?