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nztintin

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  1. I broke mine in my wagon, car wasn't thrashed, mainly driven around city, no regular thing that would load up the swaybar eccessivly, standard swaybar. When i researched it I found it looked fairly common issue, theres aftermarket strengthening braces for this exact issue. I welded my bracket back together then added the strengthening brace, haven't had an issue since.
  2. Been a while since I've had to buy oil filters (haven't been racing and had a stockpile of filters) Just found my old supplier of filters no longer does Fram, From the looks of the Fram website the only place to buy them now is BNT, That true? I don't really want to change from the filters i had been using if i don't have to. Cheers
  3. Chris at Te Rapa Automotive, Hes done all the tunes on my race car and a few other cars I know in the Hamilton Car Club.
  4. Ive got xyz in my bp legacy, and I'm pulling them out because they have no travel, the rears have 90mm total, factory was closer to 190mm. Ive smashed the bumpstops to peices on the shocks. would be ok if i ran them stiff but its a family car. I run XYZ in my racecar too, also has next to no travel but enough for tracks (the bumps at Puke is a bit sketchy tho) I had bc golds in my old forester, couldn't fault them, did a few track days and they went awesome, had them in there for 40,000kms+ and never had an issue.
  5. I had a similar issue with my forester, i drilled a hole in the wheel well to let the water out and left it at that, never found the leak.
  6. We cut the mount flange off and welded on a 90° pipe similar to a v5 intercooler. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Ive fitted v7 intercoolers to both a forester and a gc8 biggest thing is needing to move the bov on the intercooler as it hits the IACV on the manifold. then there's the clutch reservoir that needs to be moved, bent or cut depending if its a remote reservoir or not the mounting brackets are easy to extend.
  8. They don’t go overly low, I’ve ended up bottoming the height adjustment out and winding preload on the spring because the travel of the rear was S*** and kept bottoming out the shock. I’m seriously looking at changing out the rear shocks because they’re S***. My car is only an inch or so below factory height #familycardrivenbythewife Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. those last ones are the axles in my car at the moment, the right one i cant get to sit in properly as the circlip needs to be further in like the lhs one
  10. Nah rear diff, the left axle works and the right axle fits in but doesn’t hold, the locking ring is in a different position. The coupler is sealed from what I can see I’ve got a couple of the viscous diffs in my collection of parts, they seem to be pretty common but yeah I could track down an open and weld that or get those elcheapo “lsd” clamp things that you put in an open diff to make it lsd and try them. http://s.aliexpress.com/3IjeM3YZ If only my ratio was more common and I could afford to risk the crown wheel etc having metal go through them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. That was what I was referring to by shimming the diff, doesn’t sound like any Subaru guys have done it, and the drift guys sound like it doesn’t last very long?? I also can’t see how it works now I know what the viscous coupling is, all the shims would do is mash the viscous coupler and the other side harder into the spider gears, the viscous coupler is still going to slip as much as it wants. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I'm tempted to weld up the spare viscous diff I have and try it, but I think i'd be getting some spare axles in case. at least if its welded and it snaps and axle it'll still drive... The supersix commodore/falcon race cars run welded diffs and don't seem to break too much related to that, but they are running a limited tyre size too. on a side note I thought I'd try chuck a suretrac diff in that i acquired a while ago but found they need equal length axle stubs and mine arnt. will keep a lookout for some axles incase i get motivated again.
  13. Yeah would love a proper plated diff but funds wont allow that at the moment. Was just curious to see what the car had in it and if it could be improved cheaply.
  14. I pulled the rear diff out of my race car for something to do, found it is the same as the diff in this video trying to find more info on what it is and if i can make it lock quicker/better for track work From what I've found its a viscous diff?? anyone had luck shimming them? cheers for any info
  15. when i looked at the specs when i was buying my legacy the 3.0 was about 5kw less than the 2.0 turbo, from the but-o-meter I'd say thatd be pretty true comparing the legacy vs my old forester. if you want to mod a car for power buy the turbo one, way easier to make more power IMO
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