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If you can afford it an accusump is a worthy investment if you dont want to change your sump.

not sure if its any help but with hoses every dash is a 1/16 of an inch I think?

I got my car certed with the racepro seat mounts on the factory rails with no probs, but I was using a harness so I'm not sure about the belt thing. Good luck.

what seats are you planning on using? easy enough to fit seats to the rails. I have a set of rh rails with mounts for a racepro seat available

Awsome thanks for the info. Realistically after just a set of rear calipers for the moment but struggling to find them as yet.

Can anyone enlighten me on the differences between the two sets of callipers? Looking at upgrading my brakes. Not too worried about the bolt holes matching up as im fitting 319mm rear discs to my v3 poverty pack r160 single pot hubs. And I already have 330mm discs on the front with Subaru 4 pots and adapters. I've got my eye on these.... http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/suspension-braces/auction-910581096.htm I presume these are evo brakes? Are the brake hose fittings the same? will they fit the same diameter and width of disc? Cheers

Its always good practise to bleed brakes when fitting new pads, just to flush fresh fluid into them..

Anyone know what the relay is for up by the RH front strut tower on a 97 gc8 sti? Its a 4 pin round relay inside a rubber boot. Thanks

is this for a gc8 joker?

thanks. Now I remember why I was going to use rose joints and bolts. cost....

have you got a part number for these? I was gonna make my own using rose-joints but these may be an option if theyre cheap enough.

+1 on the hans device, I've been around the speedway scene a long time and seen some pretty nasty crashes recently that could've turned out alot worse for the driver if he wasn't wearing a hans. Ask BT, he knows all to well what its like. Can't put a price on your neck.

haha yea thats one way around it!! mine was just super heavy and super thick. how much did u get the suit for if you dont mind me asking?

just a heads up on the 3 layer suits, very effective but very hot on a not-freezing-cold day! I had a 3 layer and have switched to a single layer.

basically a big cannister with a piston inside it, on one side of the piston there is air pressure (set to approx 20psi when empty) and on the other side is oil pressure. only one oil line to the cannister on the oil side, this is plumbed into the main oil gallery on the engine through the top of the block (you will see a m18 plug towards the rear of the block iirc). to fill the cannister you overfill your engine oil by however much the accusump holds, start the engine then shut off the tap that you have installed in the oil line. turn engine off and recheck oil level. Now this is the good bit, next time you go to start the engine, open the tap, watch your oil pressure guage come right up, then start the engine. How goods that, oil pressure to your mains and big ends before you even turn the key. It works by the oil pressure forcing the piston inside back, compressing the air on the other side, when for arguements sake, your cornering and the oil pickup comes uncovered, the air pressure (now 80-100psi) forces oil through the line and into the bearings maintaining a constant supply of high oil pressure.