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pl0x

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pl0x last won the day on November 4 2022

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  1. Pretty much as Joker said Front axles maybe - Seem to remember some RS had female inner axle cv. Check inner CV on axle and box for male/female. From my experience you'd want to use the GT axles and make the inner CV's work with whatever suits the gearbox. Have gone through drama's recently with a bc5 where one front axle was binding due to being too long (was a brand new replacement listed for the car, but the same part number across everything pre 99 or so). Tried about 3 different combinations before we found one that worked & that was an axle shaft out of another RS. May have had something to do with being 6sp as well. And if it was me - Replace the shifter bushes (I'm sure there is a write up on here)
  2. Yea speedo fittings can be changed in-between boxes. I have a memory of breaking the cable driven one getting it out due to being old/brittle so be careful.
  3. It's pretty nice to drive, looked back into details but couldn't find anything. Installed in 2014 so can't remember exactly what it was.
  4. Turns out the clutch lives to see another day. Front axle snapped right at the CV, but the shaft stayed inside the CV boot so looked normal and was just the viscous center diff giving it a bit of drive. Easy fix.
  5. Interesting, the clutch that is in has lasted very well considering how many drag days and events its done. Will pull it out and take a look at what it was. Sounds like puk is the go and yea agree with sprung center, clutches don't need to be horrible to drive now days.
  6. Time for a replacement clutch after one too many launches, typically I'd just go for Exedy HD but haven't looked around in years (pretty sure that's what was in it and lasted 5+ years while I owned it). 330wkw/550nm and will be dragged/launched, not daily driven, v7 6sp box with 5sp clutch and some branded light weight flywheel. Was going to skim flywheel. Drew's auto clutch's appear cheap but that's not always a good thing. Stick to Exedy HD, or go a bit harsher for the Exedy 5 puk. Any suggestions?
  7. Heads being ok could be a big assumption, I'd be looking at a long block. Pretty much needs to be a ej20x quad avcs motor, Ideally get the same to ensure cam/compression is OK for the factory tune (might not even be an issue with these ecus), but you could just get the car reflashed with whatever motor you put in to know its safe.
  8. Pretty much same position as yours, just attached to the pillar. I haven't noticed it being dim or reflective. I have mine displaying 2 settings at once as the 4 settings per screen is a bit small for my not so great eyesight
  9. +1 I went for a gauge art can gauge (same as the link rebranded one they sell now), all sensors mentioned above bar egt. I barely look at it. Generally leave it on oil temp, mainly to see when its up to temp. Rest is controlled/protected by ecu.
  10. +1 on ctek, model I have doesn't look like that but does the trick bar dead dead battery's.
  11. I reckon it'll spool a bit better even twin scroll header to single scroll turbo. I wouldn't be boosting it to much, probably would be fine but not worth risking imo
  12. They are great for this, even single scroll turbos
  13. I've got a set of the bl/bp twin scroll headers which I'd let go for cheap but I'm not aware of decent turbos to suit the flange.
  14. You pretty much need to keep emailing/querying Raptor and when they get stock, pay for it then and there. I got an email back saying stock coming on X day, so I emailed them on that day (and filled out the below form). http://raptorsc.com.au/subaru-ez30-ez36-header-inquiry/
  15. ^ My understanding too What was Niran's old set up making, whatever the v12 sti run VF wise + water meth was ~250 from memory. That's probably the most i've seen a VF make, but W/M does comes with other issues.
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