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Jimdotcom

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  • Drives :
    Subaru

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  1. Thanks guys - appreciate the advice. I'm committed to taking her from Wellington to Whakatane on Wednesday, so this is going to be interesting...
  2. Cool mate; would be very interested to hear how you get on. Thermostat is a Genuine Subaru part (as were the cam seals, crank seals, tensioner, idlers, water pump etc fitted when the timing belt was replaced). Next logical step seems like it would be testing the head gasket, but I don't have the space or tools to remove much and get at the spark plugs. I'm also aware that a compression test may not necessarily show up anything for a minor leak that's only present under load. My experience with HG fault diagnosis is limited, but the general consensus seems to be that a TK test will give me the best indication of whether the HG has failed. Is this the kind of thing I can/should do myself, or is this better handled by a mechanic? If the answer is the latter, (have never done one so this may seem a silly question) should the testing valve be placed into the header tank, or somewhere else? Are there any other tests that I should perform (e.g., a leak-down, smoke test)? As a side note; was talking to a friend of mine last night who I haven't seen in ages. He's a mechanic + auto electrician. Own's a Gravel Express, used to have a GC8 and has worked extensively on both. He's always up for cash jobs. He said that symptoms seemed likely that it may be a minor Head Gasket breach. I can't speak for what his pricing would be for people he doesn't know, but he said $750 would cover it if I went to him. I've seen posts from people who've paid as much as $2500 for this kind of work, so this seems like a massive bargain.
  3. Thanks for the suggestion. I read this article which suggested that buying a couple of plastic tee's could allow you to create a bypass of sorts that still allowed some heater flow. Any thoughts on this??
  4. Thanks for the suggestion - will give this a go. RE: overheating - sorry; to avoid confusion, this was overheating before cam belt was done. Problem did escalate after it was done, but settled down after radiator cap was replaced and back to only happening on sustained hill climbs. Have edited OP to clear this up.
  5. Hi everyone I've had a look through the search utility, but haven't found any similar examples - apologies if this has already been answered. Hoping someone can answer a huge mystery for me. We have a 2000 V7, and whenever we climb hills for long enough, the temp gauge starts to rise. Doesn't happen any other time, and is OK on idle + any other time. The only thing that seems to cool it down when the needle does start climbing is putting my foot down, bringing on boost and then the needle drops to slightly below normal operating temp. This started happening up the Ngauranga Gorge, and eventually started happening on the flat. As soon as it started overheating on the flat, I replaced the radiator cap with a temporary item for a day or two, then a Tridon CB16110L. Since then, it's only up hills again. Background: Had cambelt replaced recently, but the car was overheating before this was done. When cambelt was done,car had new thermostat, water pump, coolant etc. Was also re-timed, had all of the idlers etc., done. Cambelt was done properly, by SpeedTech in Wellington, no cowboy DIY job. Car isn't running like a sack of s*** No oil in water or water in oil Black connectors under steering column don't report a fault Can smell coolant when I exit the car (I live up a big hill, so it's getting warm, but not full on overheating most days), but see no leaks and vehicle doesn't appear to be losing coolant Radiator and hoses are only a few months old All fuses are fine Electric Fans are clicking on Heater is working fine; heat in the cab etc. Car does seem to be using fuel faster than usual (average 440-460km before fuel light; came on at 370km today) It's got me stumped, and I'm having problems finding anyone who's had a similar issue online - if anyone has any thoughts, I'd be really grateful. Cheers! Jimmy
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