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pixelplay

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  • Drives :
    Subaru Legacy GT30 & Mitsubishi VR4
  • Location
    Wellington
  • Occupation
    UI Web Developer

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  1. I have just done an oil change on my 02 RS30 and I noticed today that I now have a check engine light coming on. The oil level shows as on the top hole on the dip stick when the engine is hot and over the top hole if the car is cold. Is it possible to diagnose the check engine codes on these cars or will I need to go to a dealer to get it diagnosed?
  2. I just purchased a 02 legacy RS30 and the cd is missing so my climate control wont display at all. Its annoying and I really want to get it working. The OEM head units been removed and a Sony has been installed so i am not sure if this is part of the issues but the DVD from the satnav unit is missing for sure so i really need to get my hand on an image so i can try getting it working again.
  3. I just purchased a 02 legacy GT30 and the cd is missing so my climate control wont display at all. Its annoying and I really want to get it working. The OEM head units been removed and a Sony has been installed so i am not sure if this is part of the issues but the DVD from the satnav unit is missing for sure so i really need to get my hand on an image so i can try getting it working again.
  4. Well I finally changed the sensor today after thinking about doing it for the best part of a month. It was full or hairline cracks and as soon as i put the new one in the check engine light never came on again. the car runs way better and is no longer farting around when driving. The CEL used to flash on and off quite a bit and very randomly retarding the ignition when I really didn't need that to happen. I believe the knock sensor is tuned to listen for the frequency of pings from the engine, when these are encountered the EUC decides if the noise is important and if it thinks it is it will retard the ignition. The torque of the bolts apparently important also, as if its not torqued properly it will change the frequency that the sensors able to listen to and give false readings making the car run poorly.
  5. Split green tea all over the passenger side carpet and made the car fully stink all weekend.
  6. I managed to unblock mine and its working good now, I just used a garden hose and some connectors and flushed it in both directions. I do have the water gurgling behind the dash sound now though. I also had a play with a bypass T junction but its not as simple as it sounds because you need to be careful where you t into the pipes as the TMIC takes up a lot of room above and around the pipes. I am going to add a smaller T back in as it remove's the gurgling noise but I still want heat so i think that's maybe the best way to go unless your game to replace the heater core.
  7. Its unburnt fuel getting burnt in the hot exhaust. Its normally caused by valve overlap which is where the exhaust valve is partially open and allow a little gas to escape, normally an exhaust is tuned so that the resonance in the exhaust pipe will push some of the unspent fuel back into the chamber, where it should be, before the valve fully closes. When the engine is running hard the gas flow is not as efficient as at lower revs so the fuel stays in the exhaust and gets burnt creating flames out the exhaust. Turbo exhausts tend to be more free flowing also so they are more prone to this at high revs. Generally the more tuned your car is for performance the engine tolerances are smaller so this happens more during hard driving. As somebody said above if the cars running a little rich that will also cause it, the ECU will try to compensate for this but depending on the cars setup, sometimes it cant. It wont hurt your car if its rich but it will foul plugs and sensors if its like that for a long time. But since as it just happens when your going hard its probably not an issue.
  8. Did you note the order that the conrods came off the crank for reassembly? I am just curious as i watched a few vids of these being pulled down and they seemed to think the order was important. I guess if your reusing bearings and other parts due to the wear on the items it would make sense but I would have thought that if your going to changed everything it wouldn't matter so much. It could be of course that my questions are silly to people who know better but its where my knowledge of these engines is at, at the moment and I am curious now to pull one down, got to clear the garage first though as the one here is a pigsty to work in.
  9. Yeah it would be good to see whats its actually hearing and doing to decipher the sounds from actual knock. Mine I think might just be dirty as the engine was dirty as anything when I got the car and had leaked like a colander under the manifold due to numerous rust holes in piping that's now been replaced. I will have to pull the manifold again but this time I think I will do myself a favor and remove the primary turbo first.
  10. I was thinking after reading this that if it was opened electronically via a stepper motor or something like that it could then gradually open rather than just opening it. The vac could be used to trigger a pressure switch instead of opening the IACV and that would then tell a small circuit to begin slowly opening over a preset time.
  11. I was thinking after reading this that if it was opened electronically via a stepper motor or something like that it could then gradually open rather than just opening it. The vac could be used to trigger a pressure switch instead of opening the IACV and that would then tell a small circuit to begin slowly opening over a preset time.
  12. Cheers guys I will sort the sensor and check the solenoid also It felt a lot like the timing is retarded when the engine light comes on and i suspected that that was happening. I think I will just price a new sensor as getting to its a right pain in the backside and it would be a lot of work to change for a second hand one to just have it fail again.
  13. Cheers Ross, that's where it was originally but because it had another one mounted under the manifold that wasn't connected I thought that somebody had been lazy and disconnected the old one and mounted a new one in a more simple to get to place. I will see if I can remove it and add it back where it should be. I have also noticed that there is a loose plug on the side of the auto trans that's going to nothing not sure if its how it should be but I cant find anywhere it should plug into. One other question I have is regarding my boost of the primary turbo as it seems hit and miss. Sometimes it really good and other times its feels like it not kicking in properly. Could the BBOD box cause this sort of thing as its the only area that i haven't replaced pipes so far. I read that there are lots of solenoids that can get dirty and play up. I have run the engine diagnostics though and don't get any other errors aside from the knock sensor. I also pressurized the manifold when i was looking for leaks and had nothing major leaking. I guess it could just be a sign the turbo is getting old and is due for replacement or rebuild. By the way that engines looking mint in that pic I think if i stay in NZ long term I will buy a better condition sub and rebuild the engine fully like that. I would love to pull an engine and have a really good play with one now I have got started
  14. I have my car running now but I am randomly getting a check engine light coming on and off, the code generated is for the knock sensor. Its not always on just every now and then. When I got the car it had two knock sensors connected to the engine, one was under the manifold in a difficult to get to position and was disconnected and the other one was just up from there and was connected. When i removed the manifold I removed the disconnected sensor and moved the one that was plugged in to where the disconnected one had been under the manifold. Because the check engine light is not on all the time i am now unsure if the sensor is faulty or the lead to it is maybe not a good connection of maybe I have the sensor in the wrong place as i have no idea where it should be on the engine.
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