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Raff

General Member
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  • Drives :
    Legacy B-Sport 2.0 sedan (2005)
  • Location
    Auckland
  • Occupation
    Electronic Technician - Mechanical Engineering student

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  1. Ok. Thank you all. So today I tried one more test after work. I drove home as usual, in a mix of motorway and city roads for about 20km, bringing all the fluids up to temperature, in FWD mode. Then I took the fuse off (back to AWD) and I did the usual 8-shape turns to test it, and there was no binding, no noise! The binding always appears when everything is warmed up, but not this time. Does it mean that my transmission is actually fine, and the problem is given only by uneven tyres when I drive it in AWD? If the torque transfer solenoid was buggered, or the central diff worn out, wouldn't have the problem shown up in this test? Please correct me if my assumption is wrong. Tomorrow I'm going to swap front and rear tyres, and I'll give it a go. If still binding up after driving in AWD, I'll drive with the fuse in until I'll get 4 new tyres.
  2. Thank you guys. So would it make any sense to exchange front and rear wheels, fitting the ones in better condition at the front? The center diff should detect a slight slippage from the rear then, and keep more torque at the front reducing the binding, am I wrong? Could this improve the situation until I'll get 4 brand new tyres (maybe in 5-10,000 km / 6 months)? And one more question, any side effect if I drive with the FWD fuse fitted for about 1,000 km? Will any part get worn out? I'm not an expert in AWD, and this is my first Sub.
  3. Really? You've been driving it in AWD with torque binding for 12 years? And nothing broken? I might consider to ignore it as well... Any idea of how much would be to change the solenoid?
  4. Thank you seith_31. Are you saying that you fixed the torque binding of the central diff by changing the 2 separate oils of the front diff and rear diff? Without changing the transmission ATF? The central diff (clutch pack) shares the same ATF with the transmission (I suppose), so it seems weird to me to fix it by changing different fluids, but maybe the overall behaviour will change?? I'm confused.
  5. Hi all, My Legacy (2005 sedan 2.0i 4AT - 121,000 km) seems having torque binding, it does a grinding noise and shuddering only when turning at low speed in parking slots, especially when I release the accelerator and the car goes by inertia. Also recently seems slightly less powerful, or having a sort of engine brake effect all the time, like if I'm dragging one of the 2 axels. By fitting the FWD fuse the torque binding disappear, so I assume it's the central diff (multi-plate clutch pack on my 4AT transmission) binding up in tight turns. In FWD the car has more inertia and feels running smoother. Also I noticed that the front tyres are more consumed in comparison with the rear ones (all 4 are the same brand and model), so apparently they were not rotated with the last service 3,000 km ago (I'm quite pissed by the overall quality of the last service anyway). Can this cause the axel-dragging effect, over-sollecitating the central diff all the time and heating up the fluid, causing the torque binding as result? The transmission has been flushed with the service, and an additive has been added (this improved the situation slightly). But then I just found out the transmission was considerably overfilled, probably by more than a liter, and I drained some fluid yesterday, but no improvement. Is it possible that too much fluid caused overpressure, damaging the parts including the central diff? I'm going to ask a new mechanich (maybe Winger?) an opinion, but I have the feeling that they will ask me about 1k$ just to inspect the transmission. I'm wondering if just by getting 4 brand new tyres all of the same size the problem could disappear, or the parts are definitely worn out and need replacement. Also I heard of a place called Kaspa Transmissions, apparently they are specialised in transmissions and differentials, and they advertise they usually work with insurances (I have a 2 years warranty on major breakdowns). Anybody has a feedback about this place? Any suggestions of a mechanich on the north shore in Auckland? Any opininon about the problem itself? Possible different diagnosis? Thank you Raff
  6. Thank you. Do pumps usually have sudden breakdown? Or somehow they "alert you" with louder noise/stiff steering, in time for replacement? Do you reckon it can possibly last for a few more thousand km? The steering wheel is not stiff, and the noise is not that terrible, but I can definitely distinguish that sort of shrill mooing, especially when I bring up the engine rpms. Thank you again
  7. Hi all! The power steering pump on my new Legacy was whiny. I checked the fluid and found it being brownish, probably it had never been changed (115,000km). So about a month and a half ago I flushed the circuit at home with about one liter of new ATF Dexron III from the shop. I did it by disconnecting the return hose and collecting the waste fluid in a tank while feeding new red ATF in the reservoir. I got rid of the air in the circuit and took it for a ride, then my pump settled smooth.. I was happy, but a few days after, it was back noisy. 2 weeks ago I decided to flush more fluid, so I did, about 1.5 liters more, steering the wheel all the way left and right a few times during the flush, so that most of the fluid left in the steering box got out. Then the pump ran smoothly once more. But guess what.. few days after.. whining again. Looks like there are no bubbles in the reservoir, so I doubt that the pump is sucking air in from somewhere. The fluid looks red and clean, filled up at the proper level. I have no leakage from anywhere. The belt looks good tension as well. The shroud has enough slack on the pump as it should be (I found this video very interesting ).Could be just the pump a bit worn? Any suggestion? Thank you!
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