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BP5Nut

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  1. That was the idea, just a slightly earlier version to work with the 2009 - 2014 series. Friends with that system on the 2014+ series reckon they a fantastic as well. I hadn't realised they didn't have T slots; that's kind of a deal breaker as a couple of the attachments I have need the T slot. I used to have adapters for other bar types e.g. square with no slot but they have long since disappeared. Oh well, guess i'm going with the logical, cheaper option that just won't be as much fun. Will just need to find something else on it to work on.
  2. So after 'upgrading' from the trusty Gen 4 GTB I now have a 2011 Outback, and a slight (not exactly unexpected) problem. The roof rail setup from the GT doesn't fit the Outback. Seems to me there are a couple of options: - Buy the fitting kit to convert the old setup (fixed screw points) to work on the new flush rails. - Or, investigate whether it would be possible to get hold of and fit a set of the fancy integrated / rotatable cross bar set up some of those generation outbacks have. Mine has rails like this one: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/auction-1525173508.htm?rsqid=2c364c8651cf4b728e765f6ba6efc7b1 And I'd like the rails like this one: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/auction-1543991734.htm?rsqid=c8b202886b0944d883c18d589de4d5e6 I know it is almost certainly going to be much easier and cheaper to just get the fitting kit, but hey, I think this would be kind of fun to do if it's possible. So; has anyone done this or investigated it before? Is it likely to be 'just' a case of removing the existing rails, finding a set of the new ones, and bolting them on? (with the small matter of probably removing all interior trim from the window sills up to get access)? I'm guessing that the fundamental roof structure and shape probably didn't change over the model years, so it *should* fit, but some of the holes, fittings etc. probably did. Unfortunately I can't find the full set of diagrams etc. that would tell me what the differences are. Thoughts?
  3. Thanks for the info guys, think I'll get a bit more toe in put on when I get my tyres replaced in the next few days or so. The specs allow for up to 3mm F&R so will probably go pretty close to that. Hadn't thought caster would affect it much, but after asking google it seems like it at least probably isn't helping. The specs for the Spec B are 6.05 deg, which is somewhat different from the 5.31/5.28 measured (and not changed) in the last alignment. Anyone know if it is possible to adjust the caster on these cars?
  4. Hi all, So my car failed a warrant the other day due both front tyres worn on inner shoulder. All tyres were replaced approx 35000km ago, (RE050A's), with an alignment done at the same time. I'm a tad frustrated as the front tyres - apart from the inner shoulder, have about 4mm of tread left, same as the rears, so was hoping to get another several thousand k's out of them. The wear is right on the edge, only the edge block is affected, and even then only really the outer half. The last time the tyres were replaced was for the same reason. I was kinda hoping/expecting the alignment done after replacing them would have fixed the inner shoulder wear issue, but obviously it didn't. I'm pretty careful with tyre pressures, usually check at the petrol station before any long trip. Car is a BP5A GT Spec B (18 inch stock rims, 215/45R18). Is anyone else experiencing this/have any advice for preventing it occurring again? As a side note, I'm also considering changing to a 225/40R18 size for a bit more choice in tyres (looking at Michelin PS3's) - good/bad idea? Last alignment report if it's any help:
  5. Haha you know I never thought of it as ign not '9n. That makes much more sense. No idea how old the battery is; had the car for about 3 years and haven't replaced it. Never had any issues with it, still starts fine even if I leave the interior lights on for a day or two. Pretty sure its not a faulty display of 190km to go; I have it on that display quite frequently and it works properly. I am a little concerned though about an 'open ignition circuit' error - what might cause that? Never had any issues starting, and no codes are currently logged. Might go hunting for a weak solder over the weekend if I get some time, as that also sounds possible.
  6. Hi guys, Anyone ever seen this message on the clock unit before? Mine occasionally flashes this message after startup for a few seconds, then it goes away and the clock works normally. Also occasionally flashes "ERR". I've had a look at as much documentation around the clock unit as I can find, but can't any mention of a '9n message.
  7. I pulled mine off a year or two back for the same reason. Had heaps of gunk underneath & a couple of very small spots (approx 2mm diameter) had worn through the paint and were starting to rust. All fixed up now though. I don't think they slide for/aft, I just pulled mine straight up. There are pop off tab things on each end which will go back together no problem, and the two screws in each one at the attachment points. All the other clips are some odd thing which seem to be a one time use; I ended up breaking almost all of them. Haven't replaced them as the runners stay on just fine with the screws and tabs on each end. Just have to remember not to grab them from the side and pull. Not such a big deal if you do break them, looks like partsouq sell them for about $2 each: Diagram: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/en_b13/type_82/body_equipment_exterior/molding/illustration_1/ Parts: https://partsouq.com/en/search/search?q=909130152 https://partsouq.com/en/search/search?q=909130153 https://partsouq.com/en/search/search?q=909130154
  8. So saw this on my travels this afternoon: (apologies for rather rubbish photos) Asked google and apparently SNZ have one here for 'evaluation': http://www.stuff.co.nz/motoring/nz-autocar/66894029/subaru-levorg-review Looks really good in the flesh - finally might be something worth upgrading to from the gen4 leggy!
  9. '04 BP5 GT Spec B 5MT. 191,000. Had it since 138,000 (fresh import). Engine is mint, syncros starting to feel a little worn. Dual mass flywheel feels like it's flopping around like a fish out of water. Also think it might need a bunch of new suspension bushings.
  10. PM'd I'd be happy to take any surplus parts off your hands! Not too concerned about connectivity; I mostly listen to the radio so decent reception is more important to me. The head unit I've got hold of is a NZ New one which should hopefully sort that. Past experience with aftermarket systems (Head units, amps, speakers etc.) has been really hit & miss. Mostly just hard to get it sounding good; my experience (albeit limited) with the mcintosh system in other cars sounds like the system is really well balanced which is what I'm really looking for. And I'm personally way more keen on the stock look. [quote name='GC8E2DD said: I really like the sound of the McIntosh system, but two of them have died on us mechanically. Just a word of warning. What went wrong? I seem to recall it's usually to do with the cd player stopping working - which from reading around a bit may be fixable with a bit of tinkering? Something to do with a cd selector cam jamming?
  11. Hi all, So I'm thinking of upgrading the stock stereo in my pre-facelift ('04) BP legacy to the mcintosh system. I'm not too familiar on how the whole system goes together, so any advise/help would be welcome. I thought about going aftermarket but I quite like the stock look, and from reading around I would need to spend quite a lot more on an aftermarket system to get it as good as the mcintosh system. Have had aftermarket in previous cars and have found they consume a lot of money and are a real pain to get working well. The list of bits I think I need (work in progress) is as follows: - Mcintosh head unit (already obtained) - AC controls + gear stick surround in matching colour (just being picky) - Amp - Sub - Mcintosh speakers - Tweeter flashing for front doors - Wiring looms??? I was thinking to just cut out the surround for the mid front door speakers rather than getting whole new front door trims. I've got no idea how the wiring works so if someone could explain/draw diagram including where they are routed it would be much appreciated. Also if anyone has any of the parts I might need I'm interested. I have a nz new standard head unit currently (single cd only version) in good working order which will be surplus to requirements once this is done so will be available for trade. Thanks in advance for any help
  12. Can confirm this works on pre-facelift gen 4 legacys. Installed it over the weekend on mine (2004 5spd turbo wagon). Cost me $92 for the switch & 4 pin brake switch from Strong's. No lights on the dash, but works perfectly. Didn't do any updates or anything (that I could see anyway), just plugged in the switches and it worked. Thanks for all the info in the thread - was a very painless process for me. Need a different switch from the one shown in this thread for the pre-facelift cars though:
  13. Installed cruise control, works perfectly - big thanks to this thread for some of the finer details: http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?42250-Fitting-cruise-control Only issue is there is no light on the dash to tell you whether the system is on or not. Total cost was $92 for the cruise control switch & 4-pin brake switch from Strongs. No obvious issues found so far which might affect the A/F ratio, next step is to get a bit of engine starter spray and see if spraying that around the intake/intercooler/manifold at idle will cause any rev changes.
  14. Received a USB OBD2 cable in the post today, hooked it up with FreeSSM and: Going to have a bit of fun with this over the next few days Those A/F values are looking a tad suspect... Also going to look into installing cruise control hardware now I know the ECU can handle it.
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