tweedo

Hey @sjase, Not sure if you've sorted this out yet but if not my advice would be to get a quote from them for sure. Alan won't actually be doing the work as he's on the Auto Electrical side of things but their mechanics are still good and they will use genuine parts too. But yeah, definitely get a quote. I got quite severely shafted by them when they did my cambelt. I didn't even consider getting a quote as they had always done my work. Even though the bill included a set of rear pads and 1 rear wheel bearing it came to $2400. That one hurt haha Anyway, good luck!

Approach for this now? Do I need to get the scaling rectified?

Hey all, Just following up on this now that it's been fixed. I can confirm that the issue has been resolved with the changing of the fuel pump and filter. Fuel usage back to where it should be, have gained back around 1.5L/100km. Car has much more off boost power now, as well as pulling nicely through the range and is a pleasure to drive again so I'm a happy man. The only thing that still isn't right is the stored fuel trim readings, mostly at idle where it's sitting at -9.70%. I'm really not sure why either when the mechanic tells me the car is as healthy as a button. Only thing I can think of would be the new MAF is causing it. Would incorrect MAF scaling do this? I think Dave from Cryotune had to adjust this when he tuned my car as I remember him saying the trims were a little higher than he would like. Any input would be great, Cheers!

That's just the parts mate, $600ish+ including labour they reckon. I nearly fell over when they said $140+ for the fuel filter but I figured that's just what they're worth.

I think they said it is flowing fine once it gets to that but it's the point before boost should be coming on that's the issue. It's down on power before boost comes on but no real noticable stumbling then seems to be as good as gold after that. Fuel economy has gone well down lately though. As for what pump they are putting in, I'm not 100% on that. I know these guys are pretty by the book and I just can't see them doing something like that but maybe it'll pay for me to check. I would imagine genuine at the price I've been quoted though! ($390ish+gst for filter and pump).

Hey all, Just a follow up on this in case anyone runs into similar issues in the future. I have had the car in at the mechanic and they found a couple of things, related and unrelated. They found that there was a pin hole sized hole in the downpipe but confirmed to me that this would be causing no issues at all as the rear o2 sensor seems to have been overridden. Would this be the case seeing it is a catless downpipe with aftermarket tune? The main issue that they believe to be causing the problems though, is the fuel pump. When the tested it they found it to have low fuel flow particularly in the 33% range, I believe. Their explanation was that I am effectively having to use more throttle input to get the same result. Hence why it is rolling on boost sooner than usual, but in actual fact would be normal for the produced throttle input... if that makes any sense at all. The car is booked in tomorrow to have the work done, new fuel pump and filter. So fingers crossed they are right!

Afternoon all, Happy Bathurst day to yas! Looks like she's going to be a ripper eh! Just a wee follow up on this issue. All suspect vacuum lines and inlet pipe replaced still to no avail. Economy is still going down and boost is still playing up at lower RPM and load (spooling up far too quickly low down). Although after changing said parts the fuel trims now show it's pulling fuel across the board with the most major at idle (-8.9% at idle and -1 to -3% through the rest). I will post this screenshot up if needed. I've done so much reading now I'm confused as to what it points to. So if anyone had any thoughts on what it may be that'd be great otherwise I'll let the professionals deal with as my time is short and my patience is running thin. Cheers!

2 it is then, was so close to doing away with the 2nd one too haha Cheers @Andy_Mac

That'd be awesome, cheers Andy.

Ok, cool. Is this like this from factory? Or do you think someone has put the 2nd one in? I'm interested to know what would happen if the 2nd one was removed though... boost not quite so high? Less chance of spikes?

Basic question then as I've sorted most of it... Do I need both restrictor pills?

Hey all, Kobe Motorsport gear has arrived and all looks pretty cool eh. I've got the inlet along with the matching post MAF pipe and went for one of their Dual Port BOVs too, cause why not. Old, ripped inlet is out along with the suspect vacuum line, which, part of it does have a wee hole in it after all so time to replace that too. Another question for you all on the restrictor pill locations though... I was under the impression there was only the one in the pipe running from the turbo into the T but I see there is also one in the short pipe on the other side of that T that runs to the actuator. If it's there I assume it's necessary but can someone please confirm that for me. Any tips and tricks on relocating these pills into new line would be great too. Also, is there a specific type of vacuum line I need to be using when replacing these too? Thanks as always, Graham

Awesome, cheers Andy. Where did you happen to source this from? A quick Google search provides nothing locally.

Cheers for the reply @Andy_Mac. At least I now know that it is doable without tearing everything out! I went ahead and removed the I/C this arvo as suggested, not sure if it gets me any further ahead or not haha. Will have to purchase an array of long nose pliers to try and get in there. I did notice with the intercooler off now that the turbo inlet pipe may be starting the fray and perish too so may be worth doing it all at the same time (making the vacuum line much easier too). There was also quite a bit of grimey oil residue around the turbo end of the inlet too, not sure where exactly it is coming from though. Anything to look out for/worry about? Anyway, could somebody be so kind to point me in the direction of a suitable replacement, OEM or aftermarket please. As long as it was a direct fit. Cheers!

Hey all, I thought I would try once more to get a solution to doing this before I just go ahead and book it in somewhere to be done. I've been wanting to change this vacuum line as I'm sure that's where the issue stems from but can't for the life of me figure out how to go about it.... it is so tight in there especially the turbo end of the line it seems like so much has to come out just to get at it which, for me, seems like quite a daunting task. So, if any of the Gen 4 owners or gurus out there could give me any guidance at all it would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!