shore_boy

Agreed. I google'd for an hour but had no luck. Obviously my wording (or googling skills) needs improving. Also I interpreted the end letter as a 'D' not a 'O'. Cheers for the feedback.

Bought a new car and this was in it. Both the previous owner and I have no idea what it is. Any help/suggestions are appreciated. Cheers.

I recently had this issue. Fixed myself, wouldn\'t have been hard but I had some extra complications... Here\'s the tutorial i followed http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.php/mod-transfer-case-removal-5th-6049.html?t=6049 Here\'s my thread from earlier this year http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,39335.0.html All the best mate.

Better than 2000 grit sand paper and cutting compound?

+1 I thought the WRX came with grey injectors and the STI with yellow. That\'s tough mate, I\'ve had recent fueling issues too. if she\'s boosting and constantly trying to reach full boost then from my experience issue is mechanical. If it\'s being limited/cut at any stage then electrical. Also every time I\'ve had this I get what seems to be a miss fire but i reckon just an extremely rough idle? Unfortunately you\'ve covered all of the problems that I found with my car. I know it doesn\'t sound fantastic to push the car into boost when the car is running badly but this is how i\'ve diagnosed this issue in the past. Could pay to check boost gauge readings at idle and under acceleration? Just my 2cents. All the best. Quick question, what is the reason the Japanese ECU won\'t run the car? Just curious.

What about Penrites 10W-50? dun dun dunnnnn I went for the Penrite 10W-50 before my track day. Is great stuff, saw minor improvements over the 10W-40. I chose it over the 5W because I don\'t have a baffled sump and the added lubrication is beneficial. I used Penrite fluids all round their gearbox oils make a world of difference!

As Boon said if you\'re confident that your install and parts are good you should be looking toward the power delivery and wheels. Could pay to check electrics? I know there are a few in there that limit the car severely.

Sorry couldn\'t resist.. http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Forester+with+v7+STI+rims Heres a good link http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f72/v7-jdm-sti-wheels-should-i-buy-them-80897/

That "scary" feeling is exactly what I experienced! I just got a bad feeling about it straight away. Apparently the car was backfiring like crazy (flames almost a metre long) and it was just running terribly. Nice to just be going round with the car doing it\'s job. Also the possumlink in there is so dependent on the map sensor everything and I mean everything was restricted and it was dumping fuel in to save the engine from running lean i\'m guessing?

Mine popped off whilst I was on the track and we called it a day after checking the plugs and fuel lines etc. When We got home I took the car for a drive with stock ecu in and noticed the boost gauge was not getting a correct vacuum reading at idle and then realised we had wasted almost a whole day only had two runs but hell was it fun!! Learnt a lot for the next time also!! I think I\'ll go on the hunt for some fuel line clamps and replace a few of my hoses with silicone for the next time. Mine just look tired and It\'s not the best when working the car as hard as you do on the track. I understand that cable ties are an easy option and as I mentioned earlier I\'ve been told not to stress it but each to their own. I don\'t want to take the chance. Hampton is a long way from home, and a trailer for the day is $100.

I agree with this. I think we\'ll see a lot more dangerous cars out there. In my opinion they should tighten up some of the regulations of the WOF standards. Not to mention the number of garages that are more than likely going to go out of business...

Secondly i\'m thinking of replacing all of the hoses and lines around the turbo and top mount. What\'s the best way to go about that?

Been looking for a solution for clamping my vacuum lines that are popping off causing my ECU to run extremely rich. The lines that are affected are the lines running from the map sensor to the solenoid and the solenoid to the manifold/boost gauge (t-piece). My boost gauge has started to read incorrectly even though the car is reaching full boost and holding it, so i\'m thinking it\'s something to do with the lines. Gauge is the factory Lamco mounted just behind the steering wheel. I have tried pinch type clamps and adjustable hose claps. Both are simply too big. Many people have suggested cable ties but if there is an alternative to this i\'d like to go that route. Cheers.

Sounds like my last WRX also. It\'s quite common when they\'re cold from what I understand.

This is a good option to check first as my car has a spacer in there to remove that space.