Subirex Automotive

To make it more interesting for everyone to get their heads around, we used the factory auto loom, ECU and the BCM We pulled out the AT control unit and did some magic wiring

Not my car, but we have successfully converted a facelift BP5 auto to a manual 6-speed! CANBUS still working, ready for a tune

lol

As per Vishal, its not for sale sorry

it all depends on whats causing the problem. slipping clutch doesn't always mean that the clutch packs are gone. low oil pressure causes slippage. can be dirty oil, faulty/sticky solenoid or even worn out seals inside the gearbox. these days its cheaper to get a second-hand trans than overhauling one.

had this issue couple years back when i was at the dealership. stereo doesn't come with security code from factory but the owners can choose to put a security code as some of these are security enabled stereos. there is a way to bypass those using select monitor with a special code. i did this once only and im pretty sure i have the code written somewhere. long shot but if you can make your way to the shop, i can check if my scanner can crack that code. i might also have a stereo that you might be able to try

$200 for the whole set only to cs members

im wrecking a gt legacy if you need the brakes, i have the whole set atm. for brake pads i would suggest getting EBC Yellow or Blue Stuff. they are really good for track use.

sure just pop in and see me ill quickly check it for you. cheers

@adamp. first of all welcome to the forum. you can get a lot of useful info about your car from here. members are great with lots and lots of knowledge. now if you need your car scanned than just pop in and see me, we dont charge scan fee for club sub members. as far as you are an active member here in the forum, you will get all the benefits from us as the rest of the members get. Cheers. AJAY

i tend to stay away from engine flush. as @pedro stated if the engine has sludge (which we cant visually see form just opening the filler cap), putting flush in makes it break down and go down the sump and all over in the engine. just by draining the oil only some portion of that sludge will drain, with high possibility of that sludge getting stuck and blocking the strainer, making the risk of your engine going bang sooner than expected

well this sucks. pre-facelift legacies have the added extra loom for 4 pin brake light switch. facelifts dont. but can be done with the right pinouts from BCM and ECU.

will be worth looking at these link. its a known problem on the newer generation engines. burning 1litre every 2000 km will be like 6.5 litres of refill before every service. so who will pay for that 6.5 litres (if its consuming that much). Dealer or the customer? https://www.torquenews.com/1084/subaru-settles-oil-consumption-lawsuit https://www.cars.com/articles/2011-15-subaru-oil-consumption-update-1420683845519/ And this TSB http://99pdfs.com/view/364272

its normally customer preference when it comes to oil filters in our shop. we use Valvoline oil filters (unless customer requests for genuine). but as for ATF, Air and Cabin, we only use genuine. ATF filters are external on your model, located behind the L/H fender. access it by removing the battery.

the only difference between genuine Subaru and aftermarket ones are the release bearings. aftermarket release bearing inner sleeve that slides on the gearbox shaft has a plastic housing whereas genuine ones are full metal housing. thats what makes me lean more towards genuine. RRP genuine is around $725.