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tebbyj

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  1. I have seen someone do a V7 to a V10 swap on a STI hatchback, Was an accident damaged car and rather than replace with stock bits went for the newer look, and was cool because i don't think the V10s came out with an STI hatch? i don't know if any fab work was involved but i cant imagine it would be much going from V7 to V8.
  2. My boss imports cars from befoward all the time, they usually need some minor work, most commonly brakes, rear shocks (from being strapped down) and tires. He's only had one that needed a new lower rad support panel because it was bent. To be honest if you compare prices to what you can get here your only saving 1-1.5k for cars less than 10k and you have to wait 3 months, and you really don't know what your getting. Carwebs is another website thats quite good, they give you a guarantee on compliance, all though their bidding process isn't great.
  3. When i did mine on the wynns transflush machine i had 8L total and had a little left after the fact, so id say about 7-7.5L. If your just draining the pan it'll be about 4-5L id say.
  4. I would say Coolant temp Sensor, Get a scan tool put on it and check the output, they aren't expensive but can be a prick to get to.
  5. Aftermarket vs genuine is the age old question. I have seen the good/bad side of both. With Genuine parts you know the quality will be there but your going to most likely pay a premium for it, although its not as bad as it used to be. With aftermarket it really depends on brand theres a lot of cheap copies out there to be wary of but for the likes of Tridon, Gates, GMC etc. these are all good known brands that often supply oem parts anyway. So its not a case of OEM vs Aftermarket its more a case of making sure good quality parts being used.
  6. Agree with this, if your going to all the trouble better to pay a little extra and get the heads tested and skimmed at the same time. Otherwise it might just blow again. Its not very expensive just run then down to your local engine re-conditioners when there off.
  7. It sounds to me like you aren't getting enough flow through the radiator. To test this next time you go up the gorge put the heater on full bore, non-recirc and see if that manages to hold them temp down. When you do this the heater core acts like a 2nd mini radiator helping to keep things cool. Seeing as it started happening just after you got the cambelt done, I would be taking it back to speedtech and getting them to check and replace the thermostat (just because its new doesn't mean its not faulty, have had several faulty units out the box), the waterpump (could be faulty or incorrectly installed) and that the fans are working on both low and high speed when they should. Also if nothing comes apparent there get the radiator checked as well. Make sure its not blocked up.
  8. I like it a lot, its the whole package of all the latest(ish) tech with the gramps body, was a good watch. Remember that they weren't going for all out track car here, it was a car that can be used everyday, is easy to drive, and do 1/4 mile in 11sec and thats what it does, and well. I especially like the climate control, boost control, body control all in one unit.
  9. Glad to hear your getting it back on the road man, With the struts you'll have to feed the top in 1st get that loosely bolted then put a fair bit of weight on the hub to get it low enough to get the strut in. Usually its a bit of a mish, You'll find that because its been sitting on the ground the bushes have settled at the new super low height so will require some persuasion.
  10. You'll probably find that the ones on your drivers side are plugged in already, and your just using your passenger ones. When I found my passenger ones they were already plugged in.
  11. From what i've read the BP/BLs have 2 sets of green connectors, both of which have to be plugged together to re-flash. One in the passenger footwell as well as the drivers?
  12. From a mechanics POV they are pretty good, Engines can use a bit of oil. Bottom ball joints and wheel bearings are things to look out for. But on the whole they are pretty dam good reliability wise, have a friend running one at 336ks and still going strong.
  13. Could be any number of things but most likely not the flywheel. Symptoms would be a lot worse if it was. I would say its probably the exhaust.. thats the cause of 75% or rattles
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