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BD5_RS

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  1. I know the last comment was a year ago - on a thread from 2017 - but this thread comes up in Google when searching shallow 8" subs, so I figured I'd add this info. Another option seems to be Kenwood KFC-XW800F: https://www.hotwirenz.co.nz/8-shallow-subwoofer-600w-peak/ In that link it is/was $160, although some other NZ sites have it at $200-$250.
  2. Yeah I'd stay with genuine too... A quick search on Partsouq says it might have been an X2111AA280 pump? I don't know if the X at the front means it's discontinued, but a quick google on that says it's been replaced: https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/WATER-PUMP--GASKET-KIT/72841062/X2111AA280.html with: https://partsouq.com/en/search/all?q=21111AA280 Usually Partsouq would bring up that info though. A bit odd on the belt too - maybe they don't pay as much attention to the NA motors?!
  3. Either replace it when it's slipping, or because your clutch has become heavy and you're taking the gearbox off to figure out why - so you may as well do it while you're there. How many KMS on the car? The clutch is possibly heavy due to a lack of grease where the release bearing slides on the gearbox snout. It also sounds like the snout is a common wear point, and there are sleeve kits to address the issue. There are a few YouTube videos with good info on it. The missus has an '07 SGT with 100kms, clutch has been getting heavier over the last 20k and now has some slight weirdness when releasing the clutch. I've just been checking it all out after ruling out the master and slave cylinders.
  4. I need some of these too. Have you considered this?: Probably need to go with a decent brand, for consistent damping and longevity.
  5. BD5_RS

    brake balancing

    Unless the inspector road tested the car it's unlikely they picked up a brake shudder? I'd guess he meant bias. Which yes, means one side or corner is more or less effective thann the rest. Likely due to stuck caliper slider, seized caliper piston, or needs a good bleed/flush. Probably one of the first two.
  6. Yes that's what you'll need. Buttons on the right, directly on the steering wheel. So it'll look like picture 3 & 4 of this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/auction-926805090.htm
  7. ^^^ Wait until you pay 600cc+ registration! With the new ACC levies the bike is 4x any of our cars 07 S-GT - missus 08 Triumph Street Triple - my daily (also for sale) 03 BP5 GTB - MTB hauler/tow car/my fun car 06 Estima - 200kw 4WD family hauler DRFVDR: I'm assuming you are the same DRFVDR from TEOC?
  8. I always just put 20kg in the calculator, then 25kg as a check. Depends on the profile and width of the tyre, and the width, style and construction of the wheel.
  9. Thanks for that. I've now had a read through the LGT thread, learnt a bit more and realised there's a pressure sensor in one of the valves that I need to keep. That'd explain the extra wires in that plug. I've ordered both sets of KSTech plates so I've got all options covered for blocking off or removing the valves. I also downloaded EcuFlash and had a play with a generic WRX rom - looks like fun! I might leave that part of it to someone who's had some experience.
  10. Hi all The missus has a GH7 Impreza S-GT, with the secondary air injection set up. It threw a code a while back for a valve stuck open, I checked and cleared it and hasn't returned - but I'd like to sort the system permanently. Either blocking plates straight onto the block, or between the valve and metal line to the block depending on access. I've been looking at KSTech for these, and might just order both options (http://www.kstech.biz/subaru-air-pump-delete-kit-2006-wrx-sti-lgt-fxt/ & http://www.kstech.biz/subaru-air-pump-valve-block-off-plate-set-2006-wrx-sti-lgt-fxt/) As we're based in New Plymouth, my previous plan was Dynotech Industries in Hawera to do the ECU work, but I believe he's now running STM in Lower Hutt? So, my questions: Is there anyone reputable in Hamilton, Palmy or closer to Taranaki that can delete these codes (would also be nice to turn off the cruise control upper speed limit). We're not really interested in a tune of any sort. Can I send the ECU to someone to turn them off? Someone who has a quick turnaround preferably so it's not off the road for long. Does anyone make the secondary air injection blocking plates in NZ? I know could get them made up from the bits I remove, but would prefer to have them ready to go and finish it all at once Any help much appreciated Cheers
  11. Yeah a 2.5 will be BP9. 5 = 2.0, 9 = 2.5, E = 3.0 I have a JPNZ translated owners manual for the BL/BP5. It mentions the different options (including de-activating hazards on lock/unlock), but only says you can do it through the navigation screen (if equipped) or go to the dealer.
  12. I had a 40cm pipe over it (top tube from a Raleigh 20), with 10-15cm of that sitting over the bar handle. My calcs reckon about 400nm of force? The pin sheared off then immediately bent the side of it. They're supposedly designed so that the drive piece twists and breaks, which I've done a to 3/8" bar once before.
  13. Thanks, that's awesome. I'll have another crack at it tonight. Yes the plan was to get the axle nut off, but it went pear shaped when my Koken bar broke. I guess I'll see how good their lifetime warranty is... I'm not sure if that axle nut has been off in it's 240,000km + life, and when I replaced the lower ball joint on the other side it was rusted into the hub, so who knows how much torque it'll take to crack it? I had hoped to borrow a workmate's 3/4" set, but it was out of town. Last night I had ended up removing the shock (it's due an alignment anyway) and unbolting sway bar link to try and get enough movement without touching that bottom ball joint. I'll confess I was was hoping to leave the inner joint in the gearbox and just drop the tripod out, unclip it and get the boot on and reassemble - it's only been split for a week and no crud has made it in. I'll see how it goes and report back. Thanks again for the info!
  14. My dumb question: Tripod style inner CV - what is stopping me getting the shaft out of the joint cup? I need to change the inner boot. I had slid the old boot to the side and hoped the tripod would just slide out. It didn't. CV joint grease is everywhere so can't see anything - I hadn't cleaned all the grease away in case I got f*%ked off with it and had to reassemble to use the car. I've already broken my 1/2" power bar trying to undo the hub nut, before deciding I may be able to leave the driveshaft in place. It's late, so I gave up. Edit: Car details: BP5 GTB, front d/s inner CV.
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