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Subareubs

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  1. Ok so picking up on the old thread, finally got around to getting a gauge, adaptor nut from the wreckers and installing it. I put it on the rear drivers side oil gallery port (the one next to the crank case breather). Now at this point I am fairly certain Frank (the Lancaster) has run a big end so the gauge install is basically pointless. I did however notice that when I fired it up from cold the pressure on the gauge went off the charts, maximum pressure on the gauge face is 80 psi. What kind of oil pressure should I be expecting? Did I put in the right place?
  2. Cheers Ross, will do exactly that. I figure that at least the engine mounts are ok as I just got a WoF a couple of days ago. Will see how she goes...
  3. Oh and just to be clear (my bad if it wasn't clear enough), by shunting I mean that I get the shift in weight and it "bounces" a little so not just a single bump but multiple bumps that usually diminish after a second or two... Make sense? Ill see if I can get a video that shows it but it will likely be hard to tell as its more of a feel thing than a visual thing.
  4. Cheers fellas, no weird noises and turning full lock is resistance free. I am fairly certain that I did all of the engine/trans mounts back up after the engine was out, but will check to be sure. All wheels and tyres are the same - even all tread depth is the same! Turning is fine as far as I can tell, the wheel alignment though not perfect still feels good, so might be something to get looked at. How obvious is this slight tug? what would it be a sign of? Ive no idea when the trans was last serviced so will look at doing gear and diff service in the near future...
  5. Hi team, I have a 1998 Lancaster (BH9, EJ254, manual w/ Hi/Lo) with a shade over 125,000kms on the clock. I have only owned this for a 3-4 months and when I bought it it had blown HGs. Fixed the HGs but haven't really driven it much as i mostly use my motorbike for the commute to work. Also the clutch is coming up due for replacement in the next 15,000km (plate is getting skinny but not slipping yet) HOWEVER... I have noticed when driving at a steady speed that if i let off the gas slightly then gently apply the gas again sometimes the drivetrain will feel loose and shunt a little, kind of feels like weight transfer or similar. This has happened on the flat, going up and down hills, sometimes changing gears- basically small shifts in power/weight front to back or vice versa. Its not quite like surging (fuel or timing advance problems), feels like its in the drivetrain and not the engine. So my questions are: Is it normal to have this kind of drivetrain slop (or whatever it is)? If it is not normal, what is it a symptom of? Clutch worn out? Diffs? Box? Any points in the right direction, or tests to perform, general help would be greatly appreciated!
  6. spot on Ross, great pics too! This is more along the lines of what I was thinking, cheers fella
  7. That sounds like the ideal solution! I was thinking of something along the same lines but was unsure of whether there was an easier option.
  8. Hi team, I have finally got my EJ254 back together and running and I am wanting to check what the oil pressure is like. I would like to know where the best place to plug a gauge in is and also what gauges you would recommend as I don't want to bother with some cheap ****ty SuperCheapAuto ones. I don't want any fancy boy racer **** I want a good quality tool at a reasonable price (if there is such a thing). Cheers
  9. Hey all, Its been a long time since I last posted - had to sell the RSB but have now bought a 1998 Lancaster with the EJ254. I bought it with the blown head gasket fairly cheaply with 124,000km on the clock and have just got the engine and heads back from the engineers. They say they took 10 thou (0.254mm) off the block surface (might have been total from upper and lower, not sure) and having breezed through the manual it says the grinding limit for the block is 0.1mm. When the pistons are at the top of their stroke there is about 0.3mm between the to of the piston and the block surface. Now here is the tricky question: Assuming that they did take 0.254mm off the block surfaces, is this going to cause problems? I know that its going to bump the compression up nicely (do I need to worry about anything here other than bumping up the octane I feed it?) but I was concerned about whether there will be any interference with valves etc... Am I worrying too much about nothing? Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated! Cheers
  10. Hi guys, recently had to top the RSB's coolant up as it nearly run dry due to a leak somewhere. Does anyone know the correct ratio of coolant concentrate to water is and roughly how much is needed? The engine is the EJ20R twin turbo Cheers
  11. Awesome keen as, pm me your details and give you my address etc. Do you have any advice on the best way to get at the bloody thing?
  12. Awesome thanks ;D Follow the red arrows if you can see them... Passengers side (right) of the intake manifold.. Looking down onto the manifold.. The little bugger is tucked up under the manifold so hard it is ridiculous So any thoughts on how to get the little bugger out?
  13. Umm yea, call me a noob but im not entirely sure how to upload pics to this site - anyone able to give me a hand with this?
  14. Hi guys, I have a 1997 RSB with a stock standard EJ20R in it and I recently took the IACV out to give it a clean (surging idle problem) and in the process managed to smash one of the nipples on the wastegate control solenoid off... :-X :'( ... yes I did have a little spaz at my stupidity. Anyway, I was wondering if anybody has replaced theirs before and would have a better idea of what the best tactic is to get at the bloody thing because it is bolted to the underneath of the rear right (passengers side) inlet manifold down pipe. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated
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